Serves 4

6 ounces (3/4 cup) good-quality goat cheese*
1/3 cup superfine sugar
Zest of one lemon, finely grated
Pinch of finely grated nutmeg
1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk
1/4 cup heavy cream
Lemon-thyme shortbread, recipe follows
Fruit for garnish

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Spray four 4-ounce ramekins or four 2½-inch ring molds with nonstick spray, sprinkle the insides with superfine sugar and tap out any excess. If using ring molds, wrap the bottom and sides tightly with heavy-duty aluminum foil. Put the prepared molds or ramekins in a cake pan.

2. Blend the goat cheese, sugar, lemon zest and nutmeg in a food processor until smooth. Blend in the egg and the egg yolk. With the motor running, pour in the heavy cream. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the work bowl and blend until smooth.

3. Distribute the batter evenly between the molds or ramekins. Pour warm water into the cake pan to reach halfway up the sides of the molds, and bake uncovered until the cakes are very lightly browned and set, 18 to 25 minutes. Cool to room temperature in the pan, then remove the cakes from the water bath and refrigerate until chilled.

4. To serve, release the cheesecakes from the molds or turn out of the ramekins. If you wish, you may caramelize the tops of the cheesecakes by sprinkling on a little turbinado (raw) sugar and melting it with a kitchen blowtorch. Place each cheesecake on top of a pre-baked piece of lemon-thyme shortbread (recipe) and seasonal fruits like poached pears, red grapes, figs and roasted apricots.