Between the time that Lewis described Pacific salmon in his journals and the time it became available fresh at the White House table, more than a century would pass. But then or now, one could do worse than to prepare it in this fanciful style adapted from "The Lewis and Clark Cookbook" by Leslie Mansfield.

1/4 cup maple syrup
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 (2-pound) salmon fillet
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Start a charcoal fire and allow it to burn 30 to 45 minutes, or until it is settled into a pile of white-hot ash.

2. In a bowl, whisk together the maple syrup, Dijon mustard, brown sugar and melted butter. Season the salmon fillet with the salt and pepper.

3. Spread half the maple mixture on top of the salmon and let it stand at room temperature while the coals are heating. Transfer the salmon, skin-side-down to the grill and cook until the fish just flakes (about 10 minutes for a 1-inch-thick fillet).