| Cover Story | Design Notebook | Plant Life | On Fitness | Taste | Now & Then |
WRITTEN BY GREG ATKINSON PHOTOGRAPHED BY BARRY WONG |
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THE MINI-MAKEOVER
No one sees these changes, of course. They all happen inside my head. But I do talk about my grand designs, and it drives my wife crazy. She's a realist.
So, instead of a full-blown remodel, I settle for a new small appliance once in awhile, or a new kitchen tool that makes being in the kitchen more fun. Recently I bought a toaster. Betsy was dubious. She thinks I'm a spendthrift and likes to "make do" with what we have. "I hope you're planning to get rid of your two old toasters now," she said.
I have more luck with small tools. Betsy likes the Microplane grater as well as I do and uses it to grate garlic into the best aioli I've ever tasted. The new offset serrated knife has also proven to be a big hit with her. I found her slicing French bread with it almost as soon as I brought it home.
Until then, I'll content myself with the smaller, finer things in a cook's life. Some of my favorites: The Off-Set Serrated Knife
I thought a basic set of knives pretty much began and ended with a good French chef's knife. Not so. I find myself reaching for the 7-inch blade with its ergonomically designed handle every time I want to slice or dice tomatoes, cut a tray of bar cookies or slice a hunk off a crusty French bread.
Every young chef-wanna-be right out of culinary school has one of these, and though I don't have one yet, I have handled one and, sooner or later, I know I'll give in and join their ranks. The handle is profoundly comfortable and the blade has a slight ripple that causes slices to fall away instead of clinging to it. The Half Sheet Pan At 11 1-2 inches wide by 16 1-2 inches long, this workhorse of the restaurant kitchen has become indispensable at home. Ostensibly, it's a jelly-roll pan, but even if you never make a jelly roll in your life, you'll find yourself reaching for this pan every time you make a batch of cookies or scones. I use mine for focaccia, sheet cakes, pizza, bar cookies, virtually everything I bake. Silicone Pan Liners I discovered these things when I spent a month as a brow-beaten stagier in a French restaurant kitchen. The pastry chef had me lay paper-thin slices of syrup-soaked quince on sheet pans lined with this stuff and he baked them overnight to form magical, crisp garnishes for his quince sorbet. At home I use them to turn my basic half sheet pans into nonstick baking sheets. Heat-Proof Spatulas I used to go through rubber spatulas like crazy because the rubber either melted or crumbled after any serious use; then someone gave me a heat-proof silicone spatula and it's lasted for years. For the style-conscious, Le Creuset makes a line of colorful silicone spatulas with wooden handles. For more utilitarian cooks, restaurant-supply stores carry virtually indestructible spatulas from Rubbermaid. Silicone Hot Pads The latest innovation in silicone kitchen therapy is a hot pad that can be tossed in the dishwasher. It works even when it's wet, and it comes in a variety of colors. A Good Wire Whisk I know this thing has been around for centuries, but a shocking number of homemakers still rely on those ridiculous egg beaters that are cranked with a handle. I guess there is a place for those in the world but it cannot take the place of a good wire whisk. The Microplane Grater I came into my first Microplane grater when a cooking-school director persuaded me to use one to grate citrus zest at a cooking class. I was so enthusiastic that, during the break, all the students bought one for themselves. It's an adaptation of a wood-working tool that serves as a perfect spice grater. I use it for ginger and garlic, whole nutmeg and hard cheese. Microplane is a brand name, but so far the manufacturer seems to have a pretty good monopoly on the market for this tool. All the tools pictured here were picked up at Sur La Table in the Pike Place Market. A trip to a restaurant-supply store like Bargreen Ellingson at 1275 Mercer St. could save you a few bucks on some of the pricier items, but most items at the supply houses run neck-and-neck with retail-kitchen-store prices.
Greg Atkinson is chef at IslandWood on Bainbridge Island. Barry Wong is a Pacific Northwest magazine staff photographer.
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| Cover Story | Design Notebook | Plant Life | On Fitness | Taste | Now & Then |