Blue Onion Bistro is a fat man's fantasy, a humorous homage to American bistro fare and my excuse to fuel up in fine form in a converted '30s-era filling station, kneeling at the altar of divine excess. The self-described fat man is Scotty Simpson, collector of the vintage junque that makes this fun house so much fun, a chef whose ultimate desire is to put meat on our bones. And what meat! From his house-smoked chicken to his butter-bedecked pork schnitzel to his dazzling maple duck, to his bodacious bleu cheese burgers, this guy's cooking is big-league.

Scotty's partner in the kitchen, Susan Jensen, plays Jane Sprat to the big man's Jack. Skinny Sue may eat no fat, but she's proud to serve it. I go gonzo for her homemade breads and desserts, max out on her mac 'n cheese and glory in her Gorgonzola fries. Momma never cooked this good. Nor did she let me play with my food or sit out in the front yard on a swing while sipping a big fat glass of wine. Here it's encouraged.

At the Blue Onion Bistro, chef-proprietors Scott Simpson and Susan Jensen preside over a fun house of American food, including magnificent mac 'n cheese and glorious Gorgonzola fries.

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