Pacific Northwest: Taste

Basic Scallion Pancakes

Makes 12

1 3/4 cups cake flour 1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons corn, peanut or canola oil, plus more for frying 1 1/4 cups boiling water Sesame oil for brushing 3 bunches scallions (green onions), white and light green parts, minced 1. Measure the flour by scooping it into a measuring cup, then leveling it off. Mix the flours and salt together in a bowl or food processor. Add the oil and then stir in the water gradually to form a cohesive dough. Knead into a ball - or, if using a food processor, process until the mixture comes together into a ball - then turn the dough out onto a floured board and knead two minutes by hand. Cover with a moist dish towel and let rest for half an hour. 2. Roll the dough into the shape of a snake and cut this into 12 segments, rolling each of these into a ball. Cover them with a moist towel until needed. 3. Take one ball, roll it out into a circle, brush it thinly with sesame oil, and sprinkle it liberally with scallions. 4. Carefully roll the circle up into a cigar shape as if making a jelly roll. This distributes the scallions evenly throughout and creates layers of dough in which air bubbles are trapped. These will expand from the heat of frying and leaven the pancake. 5. Coil the cigar into the shape of a cinnamon roll, with the seam on the inside. 6. Repeat steps 3 to 5 for each of the remaining balls of dough. Cover these coils with a moist dish towel and let rest for half an hour. 7. Roll each pancake flat. They should be about 5 inches wide and 1/4-inch thick. But be careful not to roll too hard. If you lose those air bubbles, you'll get scallion hockey pucks. 8. Heat 1/8 inch of oil over a medium flame in a 12-inch skillet (nonstick works great). When the oil is hot, fry the pancakes three or four at a time (don't crowd them), giving them 3 minutes on the first side and 2 minutes on the second or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels or brown paper bags. Serve and eat immediately.

Dipping Sauce

Makes 1/2 cup

1 tablespoon light soy sauce 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 teaspoon sambal oelek (hot chile sauce) 1/4 cup chicken broth Before making the pancakes, blend all ingredients and refrigerate for at least an hour.