Specialty grocers and shops such as Grapes Wine Shop & Bistro in Ballard offer a wide selection of cheese and wine, as well as the expertise to help you put together proper party fare.

The idea was born when I was researching handcrafted artisan cheeses for a possible story. I got so excited by — and hungry for — all the different types of cheeses in the world, my husband and I decided to throw a party. We figured that besides creating an excuse to field-test a variety of cheeses, the party would be a great chance to explore some wines. After all, nothing quite complements cheese like a good glass of wine.

You don't have to be a connoisseur to host a wine-and-cheese tasting. It can be as simple as inviting some friends to come over with a few bottles of wine, setting out a cheese platter and comparing the different tastes and textures. Decide what time to gather and how many guests to invite, and you're on your way.

If, however, you want your gathering to be a bit more planned, get some help in advance from books, grocers, caterers — sources abound for information about what to serve, and how. Caterers, for instance, can take care of everything from the menu and presentation to service and clean-up. They can even bring in linens, dishes and glassware if you want. For a caterer to supply servers, three cheeses and a selection of hors d'oeuvres, figure about $20 per person, according to Liza Ragan, catering manager at Kaspar's Restaurant.

Because we were planning a fairly large, early-evening party and wanted to offer our guests a light dinner along with the wine and cheese, we decided to hire a caterer. We chose Kaspar's mostly because we knew that internationally savvy chef Kaspar Donier would be able to run with the " 'round the world" theme we'd chosen. Sure enough, he whipped up fabulous finger food to represent each of the four countries we wanted to explore. Because buying wine from a store is significantly cheaper than getting it through a caterer, we bought our own, shopping at Pete's Super (formerly Pete's Wines) to get some sound advice, good prices and a great selection.. Our caterer provided servers who were educated about the different varietals and the cheeses. Having their help freed me and my husband to visit with guests.

For a small gathering, you may want to do the choosing and serving yourself. If you pour small tastes, you can easily plan for the amount of wine you'll need for the night. Assume about 16 tastes per bottle. If guests pour their own wine, figure on getting about 10 tastes per bottle. How much cheese? Three to 4 ounces per person, less if you're serving other food, too.

Here's a compromise between paying for an in-home caterer and doing everything yourself: Pick up all the prepared food and beverages at a restaurant such as Grapes Wine Shop & Bistro in Ballard. It offers wine-and-cheese-tasting menus as well as compatible dishes such as salads and tarts.

Since a grocery like Whole Foods offers an overwhelming 300 or so cheeses from all over the world, it's easy to be intimidated. Don't be; ask questions instead. Whole Foods might suggest a platter of three cheeses: a soft cheese like a brie, a semi-soft one such as Gouda or goat cheese, and a hard cheese like Gruyère or Parmesan. The key is a mixture of textures and flavors. Keep in mind that cheeses can be made from three kinds of milk: goat, sheep or cow. Ask for clarification and tastes to familiarize yourself with the distinctions.

Similarly, ask your grocer or wine merchant for wine recommendations. You'll find plenty of good options in the $9-to-$20-a-bottle range. A good approach is to pair wines with cheeses from the same area. For example, offer a Spanish rioja with Cabrales, or a French sancerre with Crottin de Chavignol. Another approach, the folks at Grapes suggest, is to select a variety of wines from a particular region — such as a crisp white Spanish albarino, a young Spanish grenache and a traditional Spanish rioja — as opposed to one varietal from different regions. This geographical focus makes for an interesting discussion of how climate, soil type and cultural tradition affect the makeup of a wine, says Grapes manager Chaylee Priete.

The old adage "things that grow together, go together" rings true. If your party has an Italian theme, serve prosciutto and salami, assorted olives and thick slices of Tuscan bread. The inspiration for our party came in large part from Steven Jenkins' "Cheese Primer" (Workman Publishing, $16.95). He recommends specific wines, cheeses and other nibbles from various countries. That's the format we decided on, with different countries featured in different rooms of our house.

France came first, with two white wines, three cheeses and accompaniments of duck paté, salmon mousse crostini and radishes. Next we visited the United States, in the dining room, where we enjoyed Oregon pinot noir, California zinfandel, fresh fruit and three American cheeses. We had similar "stations" for Italy and Spain.

Regardless of your party's format, a general rule is to start with white wines and mild cheeses and work your way darker and stronger. Also, serve cheeses at room temperature for maximum flavor and consistency. For an impressive presentation, display whole cheeses or large chunks on wooden or marble boards.

Finally, be creative and throw in some personal touches. To add international flair at our party, we bought small flags to stand next to the wines at each country's station. You might even consider designing a keepsake menu with descriptions of the wines, cheeses and other foods you serve. Guests can make notes of what they liked and take the menus home.

With any luck at all, you will have created a tasting worth remembering — and satisfying enough to keep your friends happily in hibernation until the next gathering.

The Menu
Wines Henri Bourgaise Sancerre 1999 A vibrantly fresh sauvignon blanc accented with citrus and fruit flavors. Sparr Gewürztraminer Reserve 1999 A complex mix of grapes that inspires aromas of roses and spice throughout its smooth texture.		Cheeses Crottin de Chavignol A versatile goat cheese whose flavor is enhanced by the sancerre. When young, the cheese carries a slightly salty yet sweet taste. As the cheese matures, the flavor becomes much stronger. Saint-Nectaire From the heart of France, this cow's-milk cheese is		slightly acidic and spicy in flavor and creamy in color. Etorki A hard sheep's-milk cheese with a nutty finish. Finger Food · Salmon Mousse & Dill on Crostini. · Duck Liver & Green Peppercorn. · Paté Cream Puffs. · Radishes.
Wines Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma 1999 Medium- to full-bodied, ruby in color with purple tinges. Ripe berry fruit flavor with notes of vanilla. Torii Mor Pinot Noir Willamette 1999 Perfectly balanced and flavorfully crisp. Very smooth		and silky texture with blackberry and citrus undertones. Cheeses Vermont Cheddar A very rich, sharp and assertive cow's-milk cheddar. Oregon Blue Resembles a classic cow's-milk blue cheese in its		traditional color and pungent taste. Quillisascut Goat Cheese Rich and creamy cow's-milk cheese made here in Washington. Finger Food · Assortment of grapes, pears, apples, dates and breads.
Wines Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Riserva 1996 Deep ruby/garnet hue. Subdued earth and leather aromas. Medium-body palate with brisk acidity. Giacosa Bruno Barbera D'Alba 1998 Soft and elegant, medium to ruby/garnet in color. Berry fruit flavor intertwined with cedar and leather aromas.		Cheeses Taleggio Whether as a dessert cheese, with a salad or as an appetizer with crusty bread, this semi-soft, mild-to-piquant cheese becomes creamier and stronger as it ages. Aged Pecorino A sharp and rich sheep's-milk cheese with a granular, hard and moist texture.		Pecorino Dipienza Semistagionato A tomato- and paprika-rubbed sheep's-milk cheese. Finger Food · Assorted Crostini: Eggplant & Basil, Cannellini Bean, Anchovy & Roasted Garlic. · Assorted Seasonal Melon with Prosciutto, Coppa & Salmon.
Wines Lar de Cares Gran Reserva 1996 Very strong and full-bodied red. A very good vintage in Rioja. Pesquera Tinto 1997 Wonderfully sweet and jammy. Aromas hint of roasted herbs, vanilla and spices. Intense, rich taste with a lingering finish.		Cheeses Cabrales One of the greatest blue cheeses in the world. Sharp taste, both piquant and sour. Roncal Sharp sheep's-milk cheese that is slightly grainy. Quite pungent in taste, it retains a sweet, herbaceous flavor from the wild grasses and herbs the sheep graze on.		Torta del Casar Aged cheese, from soft to semi-cured; made with unpasteurized raw milk. Finger Food · Spicy Chilled Jumbo Prawns. · Marinated Calamari with Saffron, Capers & Red Bell Peppers. · Olives.

Sources include: www.winespectator.com, Parker's Wine Buyer's Guide, 5th Edition (Fireside, $60) and "A Complete Illustrated Guide to the Cheeses of the World" (out of print).

Catherine M. Allchin is a Seattle free-lance writer. Benjamin Benschneider is a Pacific Northwest magazine staff photographer.