| Cover Story | Plant Life | On Fitness | Northwest Living | Taste | Arts special | Now & Then |
WRITTEN BY VALERIE EASTON ILLUSTRATED BY TRACY PORTER |
||||
| Getting Covered Bed down for fall with a nourishing blanket of mulch
I grew up in a garden grown huge from the benefits of feeding mulch, with hydrangea blossoms the size of bowling balls. My Dad raised racing pigeons, and the loft behind our house generated a seemingly endless supply of manure. Pigeon droppings are too "hot" to apply directly, so huge compost piles in the corner of the garden "cooked" the stuff until it cooled down. We kids dreaded the chore of having to dig into these disgusting piles and wheelbarrow the rich, black gold around the garden. Little did I guess that years later my favorite twice-a-year gardening task would be spreading a nicely rotted-down feeding mulch of chicken manure and bark. Along with its other benefits, mulching is a way to nourish the plants and soil, so I'm a little perplexed when I hear materials like straw or nutshells touted as garden mulch.
In a search for clarity, I turned to "the bible," Rodale's "Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening" (Rodale Press, 1959, updated 1999), which defines mulch as "a layer of material, preferably organic material, that is placed on the soil surface to conserve moisture, hold down weeds and ultimately improve soil structure and fertility." That seems straightforward, but the following pages list things like pine needles, corncobs and grass clippings as appropriate materials. Maybe for the vegetable patch, but I don't think these materials are what we want to look at garnishing our front flower beds.
McLeod is a fan of Cedar Grove compost, made from Seattle's clean, green recycling. "As a top mulch, Cedar Grove accents the garden its deep, black richness makes the plants 'jump' and adds the aesthetic punch our clients like," says McLeod. She appreciates that everything disposed of at the transfer station will be reused and make its way back into the garden. Depending on the condition of the soil, she applies Cedar Grove compost between 2 and 6 inches deep, and suggests spreading it on a dry day, because in the rain the compost tends to form clumps and harden. Over the months, the compost works its way into the soil, adding nutrients and water-retention capacity. Robyn Atkinson, of Robynswood Landscaping, uses a well-composted, rotted-down feeding mulch one year, cow manure purchased from local dairies the next. During the rainy season (between November and March, when the garden is barest and wettest) she spreads one or the other about 6 inches deep. She warns that mulches tend to disappear quickly if not applied thickly. The biggest mistake is to use too little, Atkinson says, estimating that mulches have about a 50 percent shrink rate. Atkinson has a kind of Northwest-cottage planting style, with a great many different plants, including vegetables and fruit, squeezed into a fairly small area. By enriching and improving the soil she feeds the plants, maintaining the health and vigor of the garden. Another thing I learned from Atkinson is a mulching technique that saves steps when tidying the garden. Simply let the dried leaves or spent blossoms fall to the ground among the plants as you clip, thus returning organic matter to the soil even more directly. This is easy, quick and saves time that can later be spent spreading on that mulch. Valerie Easton is a horticultural librarian and writes about plants and gardens for Pacific Northwest magazine. She is the co-author of "Artists in Their Gardens" from Sasquatch Books. Her e-mail address is vjeaston@aol.com.
|
| Cover Story | Plant Life | On Fitness | Northwest Living | Taste | Arts special | Now & Then |