Pacific Northwest: Taste

Black Pepper-Crusted Steaks

(Serves 4)

Grilled steak makes an extravagant vehicle for what used to be the world's costliest spice. Pepper-crusted steaks can be pan-seared, but unless you have a really good ventilation system by your stove, it's better to grill these outdoors. Four 12-ounce New York steaks Vegetable oil Kosher salt 1 cup cracked Tellicherry or high-grade black peppercorns 1. Build a hardwood fire in a backyard barbecue and allow the wood to burn for 45 minutes, or until it settles into a pile of red-hot glowing coals. If using a gas broiler, preheat the broiler. 2. Coat the steaks lightly with oil and sprinkle generously with Kosher salt. Just before you put the steaks on the grill, press each side of each one into the cracked peppercorns to coat. Grill each steak 3 to 4 minutes in one position, then, without flipping it over, turn 45 degrees and grill 3 to 4 minutes longer. Flip the steak and grill 5 to 7 minutes for medium-rare. Note: Authentic Tellicherry pepper is available from World Merchants by calling 206-682-7274 or ordering via its Web site, www.worldspice.com.