Pacific Northwest: Taste

Mary Frances' Shook Potatoes Serves 4 The general outline for this recipe is from M.F.K. Fisher's 1968 book, "With Bold Knife and Fork." "Once, on Long Island," she wrote, "I saw jewel-like tiny potatoes lying in a newly plowed field, in late August, and I pulled off my shoes and plunged into the soft sandy dust and culled enough for a fine lunch. . . . Later I learned that I had embarrassed my hosts."

2 pounds fingerling or other small, varietal potatoes 6 cups water 1 1/2 tablespoons sea salt 4 tablespoons butter, softened to room temperature 1. Wash the potatoes and cover them with the water in a good, heavy saucepan. Cook over high heat until the potatoes can be easily poked with a fork, then drain off the water. 2. Add the butter. Shake the pan over the heat until the butter is melted and the skins of the potatoes have burst open, revealing their fluffy interiors.