Pacific Northwest: Taste

Commander's Worcestershire Sauce Makes about 3 cups The original Lea & Perrin's sauce is never cooked, but Jamie Shannon boils a batch of simple ingredients to make this Worcestershire facsimile at Commander's Palace in New Orleans. With vodka and tomato juice, it makes a mean Bloody Mary.

1 tablespoon olive oil 6 ounces fresh horseradish, peeled and chopped 2 medium onions, diced 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and chopped 6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 3/4 teaspoon freshly cracked black peppercorns 2 cups water 4 cups white wine vinegar 1 cup molasses 2 cups corn syrup 1 ounce anchovies 12 whole cloves 1 tablespoon salt 1 lemon, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon tamarind pulp, optional 1. Heat the olive oil and sauté the horseradish, onions, peppers and garlic for five minutes or until soft and translucent. Add peppercorns, water, vinegar, molasses, corn syrup, anchovies, cloves, salt, lemon and tamarind, if available, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 1 hour, or until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. 2. Strain and discard the solids. Continue to simmer until liquid is reduced to half its original volume. Use the sauce anywhere you would use regular Worcestershire sauce. Store, covered and refrigerated, for up to one month. (Adapted from "Commander's Kitchen," by Adelaide Martin and Jamie Shannon.)