Walla Walla variety: youth, styles, choices

The dramatic growth in the number of wineries based in Walla Walla — up tenfold in the past decade — has led to a far more diverse field of dreamers than ever before.

Many of the wineries that have been started in the past five years are owned by a generation that wasn't yet out of diapers when Gary Figgins (Leonetti) and Rick Small (Woodward Canyon) rolled out their first barrels. These younger winemakers have significant advantages that didn't exist for the pioneers. The educational opportunities, mentoring, on-the-job training and global winemaking perspectives that they enjoy today weren't available 30 years ago.

These young winemakers — who represent the New Walla Walla — are breaking new ground in all directions, most visibly in terms of the types of wines they make, the styles they embrace, and the marketing and packaging choices they pursue.

Despite the many advantages, this is by no means an easy business to break in to. Standards are much higher, competition more cutthroat and costs are far beyond what anyone imagined 20 years ago. It's pleasing to note that, in response to the relentless, price-driven competition from well-capitalized corporate brand-makers, there are few if any gimmick labels coming out of Walla Walla.

What I'm seeing instead is a welcome trend to clever, artistic label designs, interesting varietals (often 100 percent, single vineyard expressions of terroir), moderate levels of alcohol, restrained use of new oak and a genuine effort to offer value pricing across an entire portfolio.

Here are three examples of these New Walla Walla wines, all being released this fall.

Balboa

www.balboawinery.com 509-529-0461

Balboa is the joint venture of winemakers Mike Sharon (L'Ecole No 41) and Tom Glase (Beresan). Colorful graphic labels designed by Amy Glase immediately proclaim these as party wines. The screw cap closures are progressive and user-friendly, and the winemakers use no new oak, just outstanding fruit.

Balboa 2007 Mith White; $22. This 14.2 percent alcohol sémillon/sauvignon blanc comes from Red Mountain's Klipsun vineyard. Sharp and spicy, with interesting side notes of mint and quinine.

Balboa 2007 Merlot; $19. Just under 14 percent alcohol, this pure merlot is loaded with bright flavors of berries and cherries, matched to clean acids and silky tannins.

Balboa 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon; $19. A nice companion to the merlot is this Bordeaux-like cab. A fine steak wine, sleek and herbal.

Balboa 2007 Syrah; $19. The star of the 2007 red wine lineup, this 14.2 percent alcohol syrah boasts sharply defined, black-cherry candy fruit, along with coffee, licorice and black pepper.

Boomtown

www.dustedvalley.com 509-525-1337

Corey Braunel and Chad Johnson founded Dusted Valley Vintners (with their wives) in 2003. They have jump-started the brand by investing smartly in new vineyards and building a following for their limited-edition "Stained Tooth Society" wines. A lower-priced line called STOMP! was off and running when a trademark infringement forced a name change.

Along with a desperately needed label redesign for their Dusted Valley wines, the partners have rejuvenated STOMP! by renaming it Boomtown. Boomtown's first releases include a pinot gris, an unoaked chardonnay, a merlot, a syrah and a cabernet sauvignon. The artsy label design is derived from an original, Depression-era Public Works painting, cleverly retouched (notice the sign reading Seattle Ferries).

"We're trying to make wines that show varietal typicity, in a Washington style, and offer very strong value," Johnson explains. "We like wines with acid and balance; so people can take them to the dinner table." With their fresh flavors and moderate alcohol levels, these are quintessential dinner wines. Given the times we're in, can an even lower-priced brand named Bust-town be far behind?

Boomtown 2007 Pinot Gris; $13. It's a fine version of Washington PG, with luscious flavors of pear fruit, mint and spice. Alcohol just under 13%.

Boomtown 2007 Unoaked Chardonnay; $13. The word "unoaked" is in teeny type, but the wine makes a big impression, loaded with melon and apple flavors, highlighted with almond and pepper.

Boomtown 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon; $15. In this firm, muscular and stylish Bordeaux blend are small amounts of cab franc, malbec and merlot.

Wines of Substance

Order through the Web site:

www.winesofsubstance.com

Just a year ago, winemakers Jamie Brown (Waters) and Greg Harrington (Gramercy Cellars) opened their spiffy new winery in the Pepper Bridge/Beresan/Va Piano cluster south of town. As soon as the main wines were safely in vat and barrel, they launched this clever project, dubbed Wines of Substance.

Drawing upon the periodic table of elements for graphic inspiration, they launched a head-turning Web site and an ever-growing lineup of wines that offer not only substance, but inspiration.

"Substance enable us to play at the top of our game," says Harrington. "I don't have to force anything to fit [the Gramercy Cellars portfolio]." Consumers are the beneficiaries, as Substance offers handcrafted, quality-driven wines at less than half the price of the main brands. All but the syrah (my Pick of the Week) are $18.

New Substance releases include a unique 2007 "Co" Counoise; a 2007 "Mb" Malbec (my favorite); a 2007 "Cf" Cabernet Franc; a sweet and juicy 2007 "Me" Merlot; and a 2007 'Cs' Cabernet Sauvignon. Great stuff all around.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries

The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section.

He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.