Grape gifts from the other Georgia

Despite the recent political unrest in Georgia, the former Soviet republic, wines from its principal wine region, Kakheti, are available in local stores.

Some 500 different indigenous wine grapes are grown in Georgia, which traces its winemaking history back 7,000 years. Yet how many of us in the West can say we've ever enjoyed a refreshing glass of Grdzelmtevana or a sip of Shavkapito?

Keith Johnsen, of Exclusive Brand Imports, and Erez Klein, regional wine buyer for Whole Foods, have made several wine pilgrimages to Georgia, whose wine economy, once almost exclusively based on business with Russia, has suffered under an ongoing politically motivated embargo.

With help from USAID (United States Agency for International Development), Georgia's winemakers are rethinking their business, literally from the ground up.

In that ground are large, earthenware amphorae — called kvevri in the Georgian language — where wines are made much as they have been for thousands of years. Entire bunches of grapes are pressed and then everything — juice, skins, seeds and stems — is placed in these vessels, some large enough to hold three men. The jugs are buried up to their necks and covered with lids during months of fermentation. The resultant dry wines, the color of honey and gently oxidized into flavors that are strikingly unique, can be revelatory.

Not everything is ancient in Georgia, however. Some of the larger wineries have been extensively modernized in the last decade, often by foreign investors anticipating a ready-made Russian market for the wines. The embargo has brought all that to a halt, and the hope is that the U.S. can become the new export market of choice.

It's not as far-fetched as it might seem. Think about the trends that have swept through in the past 10 or 15 years. It wasn't that long ago that Australian wines were exotic; now Yellow Tail is the biggest import brand in the U.S. Chilean carmenère, New Zealand sauvignon blanc, Italian pinot grigio, wines from the plains of Spain and as far away as South Africa have found their place on retail shelves. Most recently it is the malbecs of Argentina that have become the fastest-growing category of imports, and deservedly so.

What generally drives such success are unique wines that cannot be duplicated elsewhere, introduced at prices that consumers will pay for an experiment. Based on the first wines coming our way, I think Georgia has what it takes to become the next overnight success in the ever-trendy wine business.

Though I joke about the grape names, which are virtually incomprehensible, the wines that Johnsen is importing have been carefully chosen to fill several unmet needs. A small number of wines from a couple of producers will arrive in Seattle this month. Their labels have been redesigned, their prices cut to the bone. These are well-made wines from grapes that may not be familiar, but which are considered as best of class in Georgia.

I particularly appreciate the fact that these wines are finished at levels of 12.5-13.5 percent alcohol, yet show no hint of being underripe or vegetal. They are consummate food wines, and both the whites and the reds make fine companions to a wide variety of cheeses, cured meats, spicy sausage, grilled lamb and sautéed greens.

Seattle will be the first market in the country to see these wines, which are being featured at Whole Foods and select wine shops around town.

Mildiani 2006 Katsiteli White Wine ($9) is my Pick of the Week.

Mildiani 2005 Saperavi Red Wine ($9). Saperavi is the name of the grape, which is made in a variety of styles; here finished bone-dry at just 13 percent alcohol. A rich, plum-colored wine, it is scented with an intriguing mix of smoky herbs, steely minerals and peppery spice. It is light on the palate but offers persistent, complex flavors of raisins and sour cherries.

A step up in concentration is the Mildiani 2004 Saperavi Reserve Red Wine ($13). Dry and tannic, it's got more body than Mildiani's regular Saperavi but brings the same smoke and pepper highlights with its tart red fruit.

Vinoterra is a 4,000-case boutique, whose 2005 Tsinandali ($15) is made from the same rkatsiteli and mtsvane grapes as the Katsiteli (the 'r' is silent and has therefore been dropped from the name). This elegant white wine, at just 12.5 percent alcohol, could not be more refreshing, with lively spices and green herbs joining flavors of cucumber and green pineapple. A perfect wine to accompany lighter fish, olives and goat or sheep cheeses.

Vinoterra 2003 Saperavi Kakhetian Dry Red ($20). Unfiltered and deep-hued, this tastes of pomegranate, berries and herbal tea. It's supple and beautifully proportioned, with flavors that recall the low-alcohol (less than 13 percent) zinfandels of the 1970s.

For true wine adventurers, very limited quantities of three different amphora-fermented wines are also available from Vinoterra. The 2005 Mtsvane and 2005 Rkatsiteli sell for $18; the 2005 Kisi is $20.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Washington Wines and Wineries The Essential Guide." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.