Smart picks for a Gru-V Valentine's toast

Grüner veltliner, which I once derided for having a name so ugly that it makes gewürztraminer seem like a song, has nonetheless been finding a place for itself among wine drinkers who have the explorer gene.

Like many of the other racy, high-acid, herbal white wines of Europe, Austria's grüners offer more complexity and sensory input, more scent and flavor, and more compelling regionality (terroir, if you insist) than many expensive white wines made from familiar grapes. Sommeliers and other wine adventurers are taking notice. Recent vintages (2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005) in Austria have all been excellent for these wines, which belong to that elite group of dry white wines that can benefit from cellaring. Best of all, grüner seems to have acquired a jazzy nom de plume — Gru-V — which, corny as it sounds, is still a great leap forward.

Grüner (rhymes with crooner) simply means green, which identifies this grape as separate from the rest of the veltliners (you know — roter, brauner and fruhroter.) White wines remain Austria's forté, and grüner the standard bearer, especially those from Wachau and the neighboring regions of Kamptal and Kremstal.

In keeping with this year's promise to explore less well-known regions and grapes, I recently sat down with Dieter Klippstein of Triage Wines and tasted through a lineup of 2005 grüners in his warehouse.

These wines are great date-starters, whether on a special day such as this, or on any other day, for that matter. They are light, palate-cleansing wines, peppery and a bit sharp, and they set the table for what is to follow without being overbearing or too filling.

I've mentioned the Salomon 2005 Grüner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($13) in this column as a former Pick of the Week. It's a Terry Theise Selection, bone dry and just 11.5 percent alcohol, and it comes with a screwcap (very cutting edge). It hits the taste buds like a blast of mountain spring water, clear, cool, crisp and refreshing.

Another winner is the Johannes Hirsch 2005 Veltliner #1 ($14). From the Kamptal region, it's got an extra dollop of creamy fruit, and it's loaded with the steely minerality that makes these wines so bracing. Somewhat riper (and a bit higher in alcohol) is the Schloss Gobelburger 2005 Grüner Veltliner ($12), also from Kamptal. This one is flavored like a ripe sauvignon blanc, with immaculate fruit and a grassy scent. The Loimer 2005 Grüner Veltliner ($16) costs a bit more and delivers more intensity, adding a fusil character that comes with the extra concentration of flavors.

It's especially exciting when you can purchase some of the finest wines of a region for prices that don't buy squat in other places (Burgundy, for example). Step up to the Hirsch Heiligenstein 2005 Grüner Veltliner ($20), and you'll find a wine laced with black pepper that gains in amplitude from extra ripeness. It's a mouthful of liquid power and finesse, poured over rock and tasting of pepper and slate.

Folio Wine Partners, Michael Mondavi's new company, is also bringing some grüners into the market. I especially liked the Laurenz V 'Charming' 2005 Grüner Veltliner ($25) (that's really its name). But the real surprise is an Oregon Gru-V, made by Reustle 'Prayer Rock' Vineyards in the Umpqua Valley. Just as Abacela has aggressively pioneered tempranillo, grenache and other nontypical grapes in central Oregon, Reustle not only was the first to plant grüner in the Northwest (if not the entire country), it actually petitioned the Tax and Trade Bureau and won approval for it to be added to the government's list of approved grape variety names for American wines.

Reustle made just 69 cases of 2005 grüner, but the 2006 will be released next month, and production has quadrupled. I previewed the wine and found it true to varietal, crisp and pepper, with more juicy fruit and residual sugar than the Austrian versions. Contact the winery for purchase information (541-459-6060).

So, you're off to a Gru-V start on this Valentine's Day. Now what?

Bring out the bubbly

Regular readers will know that my vote on any special occasion day will always go directly to Champagne — rosé Champagne, whenever possible — particularly when romance is in the air. What to eat with your Champagne? The Center for Wine Origins, which serves as a lobby for the protection of regional names such as Champagne, Port and Sherry, has created a useful pairings wheel that offers some good ideas for romantic, off-the-beaten-path wine and food combos.

Much of this information is also available on their Web site (www.wineorigins.com), but here's the gist of it:

• Rosé Champagne: Soft cheeses, salmon (smoked or grilled), lobster, berry tart.

• Fino/Manzanilla Sherry (a dry style): Sushi, shrimp, ham, paella, vanilla ice cream.

• Amontillado Sherry (richer style): Gorgonzola, stilton or Roquefort; grilled chicken, roast turkey, crème brulée.

The perfect couple

The real test of a relationship (I'm speaking of the relationship between food and wine, of course) is dessert. As usual, I've got to warn you away from the trap of drinking dry red wine and chocolate.

If you are having chocolate, pair it with ruby Port (see my Seattle Times column from Nov. 22, 2006 at seattletimes.com/wineadviser for specific recommendations) or Oloroso Sherry. Their sweetness will provide the right framework for the chocolate. If you are serving any nut or caramel-based dessert, try a tawny Port (10- or 20-year-olds are the most affordable and drink very well). Want something truly exotic? Try a white Port, and pair it with smoked ham, barbecued duck and a pear tart.

These are unusual, special-occasion wines that should put a smile on your Valentine's face. When you serve them, you will appear to be suave and knowledgeable. Let the wines do their magic, and chances are good that the illusion will outlive the evening.

Finding the wine

Unless noted, all Wine Adviser recommendations are currently available, though vintages may sometimes differ. All wine shops and most groceries have a wine specialist on staff. Show them this column, and if they do not have the wine in stock, they can order it for you from the local distributor.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section.

He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.