The job description for a wine writer, were such a thing to exist, would surely be one of the oddest in the world.

Whenever I attempt to describe a typical day in my working life, I tend to dwell on the mundane details: the hours of e-mail, the scheduling of meetings and deadlines, the sorting of wines and organizing of tastings, and the seemingly endless trips to the recycle bin. But what people really want to know is how many wines do I taste? In her soon-to-be-published book about Robert Parker, the world's most influential wine writer, author Elin McCoy has an entire chapter called "Tasting 10,000 Wines A Year." I think that's a low figure for Parker, but depending upon how you count it, I probably come fairly close to that. It's an extraordinary amount of wine, even though, as one wag put it, we writers assiduously practice the "catch-and-release" method of wine tasting (e.g. spitting).

Of course, it's not a competition, and sheer numbers do not an educated palate make. But it does tend to leave people momentarily stunned, and they soon break the silence by asking (a) do you need an assistant and (b) don't you ever get tired of tasting so much wine?

Yes and yes. But fortunately, the nose and palate refresh themselves rather quickly, and I have a most helpful and understanding spouse, who has grown accustomed to countertops, tables, furniture and floors covered with small clusters of wine bottles. If the day ever comes when I simply cannot get excited about wine, any wine, I'll turn in my corkscrew.

I'm finding that with each new vintage, the wines of Washington are gaining confidence and credibility. The ranks of surefire producers are expanding. Some of our oldest and biggest wineries are doing their best work in years. Newcomers are jostling for attention, and a few are grabbing the gold ring on the very first spin around the horn. When you taste 100-150 wines a week, the few that make an indelible impression are treasures.

Bob Bertheau joined Chateau Ste. Michelle as its white wine guru two summers ago, the latest in a succession of gifted winemakers that included predecessors Mike Januik and Erik Olsen. Bertheau's first flight of chardonnays has just been released, and it is a stunning success.

Chardonnay is not an easy grape with which to turn a wine writer's head, and Washington has never been particularly noted for making exceptional ones. Bertheau's new lineup includes a baseline Columbia Valley bottling, three single vineyard show-stoppers and the winery's new super premium chardonnay, called Ethos, which supplants the old chateau reserve.

In his letter of introduction, Bertheau suggests that the cynical sentiment ABC — anything but chardonnay — be turned on its head. Think CBA, he suggests, which stands for Chardonnay, Back Again!

Bertheau does an excellent job of describing the three key elements that in his view set these new chardonnays apart. No. 1 is a clearer distinction among them. No. 2 is better integration of the oak. ("Oak is a spice, not the main ingredient," he writes). No. 3 is more softness and complexity in the mouth.

I believe he has succeeded beautifully on all three counts, crafting five chardonnays that deliver complex flavors at moderate prices and lay way back on the intrusive flavors of new oak.

Rulo is Kurt and Vicki Schlicker's Walla Walla winery, and the new wines from the 2003 vintage are glorious. As I have written previously, Rulo's wines are especially notable for their clarity and focus. For some tasters, wines that smell like old saddles or silage or barnyard stalls may have character, but I wish that more young wineries followed Schlicker's lead and got fanatic about showing super-clean fruit. His wines are immaculate, though never boring or stripped.

Rulo's nonvintage red blend called Syrca is a great introduction to the house style. It's about three quarters syrah and one quarter cabernet, and it is the perfect wine for your summer grilling. Then, for a Saturday splurge wine, step up to Rulo's 2003 Silo — a reserve syrah that is as fine as any syrah I've ever tasted from Washington state.

Rulo is distributed only in Washington state, and sold mostly out of the winery. By self-distributing, the Schlickers figure they cut $5 off the price of each bottle. All their wines are exceptional values, but the syrahs are most notable. Washington's growing reputation for making great syrah is somewhat tempered by high prices, but here are three that are competitive with anything comparable from France or Australia.

Speaking of syrah, the Gamache brothers have followed up their outstanding 2002 cabernet sauvignon (the winery's first release) with a blockbuster 2003 syrah, again from the estate vineyards. For two decades, Gamache Vineyards has been a contract grower for Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, contributing to their Northstar merlot, Eroica riesling and Columbia Crest reserve cabernets. Charlie Hoppes (Fidélitas) is the consulting winemaker. I expect great things from Gamache in the future.

All these wines are highly recommended. With the exception of the Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley chardonnay, all are made in limited quantities and may not be available for very long.

Paul Gregutt is the author of "Northwest Wines." His column appears weekly in the Wine section. He can be reached by e-mail at wine@seattletimes.com.