Readers share their comments about travel in India

Seattle Times travel writer Carol Pucci will make her way from India's capital of New Delhi, through royal Rajasthan and Jaisalmer in the western desert; on to Kerala in the tropical south; and finally to India's largest city, Bombay (Mumbai).

Below is a selection of comments from readers about traveling in the country.

• • •

I couldn't agree more with the thoughts conveyed in this article. Traveling alone in India as a white female from Western culture was one of the most demanding travel experiences of my life. As horrific as the extreme poverty levels I witnessed were, and as exhausting as the continual harassment got, the beauty of the country and the people will drive me to return someday.
— Katie Thomas, Seattle, WA

I am from Hyderabad, India and working for Boeing, Auburn for past 27 years. Recently I visited Hyderabad taking advantage of the direct NW airlines flight Seattle - Amsterdam - Hyderabad. There are some ten women co workers in my group. For each one of them I brought back a gift of silk like Pashmini shawl which they accepted with a lot oooohs and ahhhhas. They loved my gesture and such a wonderful gift. There was not much choice for men and so I brought back some handicraft which they passed on to their children for show and tell at their school. Anyone going to Hyderabad I highly recomend taking this NW airlines route. You will be in the company of lot of Indian families and lot of crying children not to mention spicy food.
— Mir I Ali, Pacific , wa

Hi Carol, I read with great interest your articles about India. As I am from India, I could relate to many things you have stated. India will change you forever!. Thanks very much for the articles.
— Pacha Nambi, Bellevue, WA

Carol, I truly enjoyed reading about your experiences. I will be traveling to India in a few weeks, for the adoption of my 2nd Indian child. I hope to spend a bit more time in-country this trip, and will benefit greatly from your experiences and recommendations. I also plan to check out the Master Guesthouse in Delhi.
— Kristi Jenkins, Marion, Illinois

As one who has traveled in India many times and was a Fulbright Professor there, I was very pleased to read about your travels. Nearly all of what you say was quite on the mark. I genuinely like your final remarks in the last article. It is similar to what I tell Americans who are contemplating travel to India: If you can stand India for 3 or 4 days, you will start loving it.
— Namaste, Robert D. Meade

Carol, I am thoroughly enjoying your daily travelogue from India. I visited India in 1974 as part of a year-long worldwide nomad experience. Will never forget the beauty and smells of Fall in Kashmir during our journey up river via houseboat with an extended family. Will also never forget the overwhelming poverty and near death visuals in Calcutta. My husband and I plan to visit India in the next year or so, and your travel information/hints are extremely helpful and enticing. Thanks much! Two questions - what's the best way to acquire your entire travel story for my research files? It sounds like you have packed 'light' - what all have you taken for clothing and supplies and has it worked well? Again, thanks and enjoy the rest of your journey.
— Melody Mociulski, Bainbridge Island, WA

C.P.: Here's the link to all of the dispatches: India: An independent adventure. Yes, packing light is important, especially if you're using trains to get around. Storage space is limited, and even in a car, trunks are small. I took one standard carry-on size suitcase and also carried a nylon shoulder bag, handy for packing just a few things, such as toiletries, for overnights on the train, in the desert etc. when I didn't need much of anything else. It's cheap to have laundry done and most hotels and guesthouses offers laundry service. It's been very hot so I find I go through clothes quickly. Unless you're going to the beach, leave shorts at home. Revealing clothing of any kind is unacceptable for women. Some women buy Indian outfits to wear, and they do look nice, but I've been wearing my regular western clothes - light-weight pants, t-shirts etc. and closed-toed shoes. Sandals are OK for around the hotel etc., but impractical for walking the streets. Inexpensive lightweight tops and shirts can be purchased at Indian markets, another option if you forget something or need something extra.

Carol, it's been wonderful reading both your articles and people's responses. Ive spent a lot of time in India and though it can be a challenging place to live and travel, find myself drawn back to it again and again. Reading your notes on Kerala made me remember my time in Fort Cochi and the backwaters. Another reason Kerala is so different from the rest of India is that it was originally a matriarchal society. I could still feel the effects of that legacy last year. I noticed it was the only place that, even in rural towns, women would look me in the eye and say hello first. Traveling alone as a woman in India, I often tried to meet Indian women and learn a little about them and their daily lives. I found them much more open to interaction in Kerala. Keep writing and traveling,
— sabe graham, seattle, wa

just got to my office and quickly went to the S. Times travel site to hear the "latest". I have so enjoyed your travel diary. The way you recounted your days I felt as though I were with you! I never write someone I don't know like I'm doing today but I wanted to thank you for sharing and let you know how much I appreciate you sharing your experience. One question, did you or your husband take the pictures? They, also, were great! Safe journey home!
— Margie McConnell, Port Townsend, WA

C.P.: The pictures were taken by both of us.

Hi Carol,

I happened to read your article online on seattle times website and i must say that I didnt get up from my seat until i had read all of your experiences of travelling in new delhi, jaisalmer etc...took me an hr and i enjoyed reading it thoroughly! Your article caught my fancy because of the above names. They are very close to my heart as I have grown up in delhi and rajasthan state (jodhpur/jaipur & frequent visits to jaisalmer) most of the time in my life. I am currently living in redmond, WA and love reading posts about india.

I hope you will post some more beautiful pictures of the sand dunes, patwa haveli as well. I will look forward to your next articles about bombay and kerala.

I sincerely hope that you enjoy your rest of the stay in India and will have more pleasant experiences there:)
— Sangeeta Verma

Try to stay at the Rohet Gahr heritage hotel about 20 miles south of Jodhpur. A lovingly renovated 16th-century combination of family estate and fort (it's still in the Singh family), it sits in the middle of a Rajasthan village. Walk through the village and interact with the local weavers, silversmiths, cobblers, etc; enjoy the adjoining lake, and the lush grounds punctuated the cries of roaming peacocks. Enjoy the superb buffets and local music. Take a village jeep safari to get a real feel for the sophisticated , ancient sustainability ethic of this basically tribal area. By the way, Bruce Chatwin wrote "Songlines" and William Dalrymple "City of Djinns" here.
— Rick, Seattle

I have enjoyed reading your adventures, as they sound alot like mine when i visited Delhi, the Taj and Jaipur. I have found no other place in the world like India and i love it. Try and watch a Bollywood movie while you are there, it's amazing. People who haven't been to India, truly haven't seen the world -- it's a whole other world. And trust me when you get back, you'll look, appreciate and live more in Seattle than you ever did before. India opens your eyes to how great we have it in America. Happy travels!!!
— Natasha Jaksich, Renton, WA

Incredible India shall always be how I say the name of India. That the people I met and observed were extremely hard working, thoughtful, intelligent and purposeful is a fact. Carol, please make time to visit Varanasi, all else is good, it is the BEST!
— Pat Ryan, Port Ludlow, WA

Carol. Thank godness you finally found something you like in India (Kerala)! So far I have found your accounts extremely uninspiring and somewaht whiny. I traveled in northern India for three weeks a few years ago. I experienced all (and more) of the same places you have but was completely enthralled. Only in Kerala are you talking about sound, tastes, senses. Did you totally miss all this on northern travels? If you wanted clean and literate, you picked the wrong country.
— Sandy, Seattle, WA

Hi Carol! I've been reading your feature "India: An independent adventure". I find myself vicariously living your life. If you find a day or two extra, hop on to Bangalore. You and your husband are welcome to stay with us. Before you say "who on Earth is this and why would I stay with strangers", a little bit more about my family and I.

We lived in Redmond for 15 years and moved to Bangalore in April 2005. We'll probably be here for 2 more years and then back to Redmond suburbia. My husband and I are both Indian by birth, both of us went to grad school in the US, met at grad school, got jobs at Microsoft and lived in Redmond. We now have a 6.5 year daughter and a 2.5 year old daughter.

We moved here to take care of Joseph's (that's my husband) dad. Unfortunately, he passed away in Nov 2005. It's been great for the kids to get to know the part of the family that's in India (we have lots of family in the US). And it's somewhat been our mission to host all our friends from the US, specially the not-so-bold travelllers, travellers with young kids etc. Of course, they all find it easier to travel since we have our place all setup to be somewhat like our Redmond home.

Enough about us. The reason I wrote to you is to say that I really admire what you are doing. I'm sure you will be overwhelmed (that would probably be an understatement). I hope you will take away something from this trip and that you meet a few people who will go beyond the call of duty to be good to you.

Happy Diwali!
— Chandana

Carol, You mentioned this might be your pnly trip to India.I think you should have visited at least one of the Himalyan hill stations. Going to India and not seeing the Himalayas is like coming to Seattle and not visiting the Pike Place Market!The spirit of the country lies in the majestic mountains.
— Raina, Seattle, WA

Hi, Carol! Your trip reminds me of the time my mother and I spent in India as part of a brief, around-the-world trip in April 1975. I especially remember one particularly serene evening in our palatial New Delhi hotel, resting on our beds in a room almost larger than our house back home, ceiling fans turning lazily on the 20-foot ceiling above and the ethereal, enchanting music of the evening sitar concert drifting through our windows.... — Sylvia Nogaki, Seattle, WA

If you plan to take one of the boat trips on the big lake near Kerala, spend the extra money and rent a boat that is air conditioned. Otherwise, the mosquitos will eat you alive inspite of the mosquito netting and burning coils the crew will light and put in your room. Good luck, len
— Len Boscarine, Burien, WA

I am Indian, 62, presently on vacation, staying with my daughter in Seattle. My place of residence is Mumbai, India. The contrasts in India are too many for first time traveller to India. Lately, the progressive part has over-powered the backwardness. Competetiveness in national travel due to introduction of quite a few private airlines has improved air travel. The other important industry which has made difference is telecommunication — mobile phones and internet.
— Arun Seth, Seattle

Hi Carol,

I read your post in Seattle times and I understand how exciting to visit a country with so much diversity. It is also difficult to trust hearing all the comments from variety of people.

I wanted to assure you that you will enjoy the stay in India and would definetly want to go back there as there is so much to see.

Maybe next time you may want to consider visiting Mysore which is in the South and it has variety of things to see like Palaces, jungle, temples, rivers etc. Check these lodges www.indiawildliferesorts.com/wildlife-resorts/kabini-river-lodge.html.

Regards,
— Brunda

I have traveled solo in India and you have picked lovely places to visit. A word of caution — A lot of the hired car drivers work on commission and will try to take you to their friend's place for the best deal on "__" insert favorite souvenir here. If you are a serious shopper go to govt run stores to get a price check before putting major money down on carpets, gems, silver or high end items at private shops. You are staying with some great hosts. I have stayed with Lily and Mahendra in Jaipur and they will ensure a safe and marvelous stay in Jaipur. Lily is a source of information on places to go, things to do. Also doing prepaid taxis at airports, train stations will help alleviate the stress of bargaining with taxi drivers and being taken to the wrong place. You must take a cruise on the kerala backwaters. Its spectacular and people are very down to earth and friendly. Enjoy!
— Archana, Seattle

I was fascinated by Carol's story on her planning for India. I've been there six times. Pls tell her she should visit Darjeeling in the Himalayas. It's my favorite. Cheers!
— Stan Patty, Vancouver, Wash.

Hi Carol

Read your article on the internet about your planned trip to Kerala. I live in Kerala and opening a Homestay business in couple of months and very interested in hearing your experiences while traveling in Kerala.

I live in Kuttikkanam a village on the way to Periyar Wildlife Reserve. If you are passing by Kuttikkanam and do need any assistance please feel to contact me on my mobile 9447550804. Please visit my website www.mundax.com.

Have a great day.
— Mathew Joseph

We basically did your trip in August (with 3 young children in tow!) India is an assault on the senses. The colors, the smells, the heat all come at you in a way that it becomes hard to figure out exactly why you are overwhelmed. It's no one thing. It's all of it, mixed up together. What struck me most was how closely together people live. The wealthy and better-off are not insulated from the extremely poor. The poverty is in your face, especially if you travel anywhere by train. The train station in Jodphur was as close to my definition of hell as any place I've ever been in my life. Masses of extremely poor people with nowhere to go but the train platform, hungry, dirty with the smell of urine and feces so strong it was difficult to breathe. We had seen poor people out in a village, but there, at least, the imagination could dream up ways of helping. At the train station, the situation was so dire and overwhelming in the impossibility of doing anything meaningful to be of assistance. We were in India on software industry related business, so we definitely saw the "up and coming" side of India. What was astonishing was the things we saw that have not changed in hundreds of year. There's a famous quote about India - "Whatever you say about India, the opposite is also true." I thought about this a number of times. While traveling, I read Sarah McDonald's book, Holy Cow. I highly recommend it before you leave or on the plane! She captures the craziness - and the beauty.
— Patti, Seattle, WA

We were in India last year, visiting all the places where you will be going. As a result of that trip, my husband, Grant, has 26 photos, "Faces of India," exhibited for the month of October at Pegasus Coffeehouse on Bainbridge Island. Take a look at www.pegasuscoffeehouse.org and click on "Art" for a glimpse of the show.
— Barbara Winther

Carol,

I've been travelling to India off and on for 25 years. Yes, there have been big changes. I'm probably going in January to work a trade show with our Rep. Here's a couple of tips -

This is too late for you on this trip but I'll never fly more than about 12 hours. First time I headed out (Singapore, not India) I flew straight through. I was in the hotel 24 hours after I started. for the next two days I felt like a vegetable. Now I fly to Narita, get off the plane, spend the night in one of the hotels near the airport and fly out the next day to India or Singapore. Very little jet lag that way.

No water in India is trust-worthy. That includes the hotels that purify their water. Bring a purification kit and a couple of bottles of water to brush your teeth. Last time I saw a billboard for a soft drink named Limca. The slogan was: "100 percent bacteria free!" So I drank Limca, tea and beer.

Eat Tandoori because it's cooked in a hot oven, which hopefully kills the bugs. Wash your hands a lot. Bring toilet paper, they use their left hand. That's why you don't shake a left hand - unclean.

Watch out for any fruit that's sold by weight. Normally you'd think fruit is OK, sealed in a skin, right? Wrong, if it's sold by weight, like melons, they inject river water to make them heavier.

As a young man living in Southern California, my buddies and I went to Baja California a lot. I think that experience helped prepare me for India. Many Americans are simply freaked out. It's a poor, underdeveloped country, get used to it. It is also beautiful, over-populated, and fascinating. Last time I was there we passed by a shanty town at night. Every third or fourth shack had a blue glow - television! No running water, no sanitation (watch where you step), but they have TV. They also pirate cable. The poor slum dwellers charge their poorer neighbors a couple of rupees to watch TV in their shack! Fascinating place.

Have a nice trip,

— Richard Shilling, Shoreline, WA

If you are going to kerala, try back water trip in alleppiy. They have some house boats where you can stay all night at the middle of a lagoon. Will never forget the the following day's sun rise.
— Steve Upton, Liverpool, Uk

When it comes to dealing with people, my observation was that as you go south, people get friendlier. Sometimes they may look too curious, its just the way Indians are. When you are in Delhi, its better to take pre paid cabs. Drink bottled water and enjoy local veggie meals. Its amazing! Thanks
— NPrasad, London

My fiance and I returned from 4 1/2 months in India, following 4 months in SE Asia, in July. People "travel" (as opposed to "vacation") in order to immerse themselves in their destination. Travelers stay in traditional accommodations to avoid ensconcing themselves in Western-stye surroundings. Travelers eat the local cuisine, as opposed to local interpretations of Western delights. "Traveling" was all well and good for us in SE Asia. We relished being a part of it 24/7. After a few weeks in India, however, we were ready to take refuge from our immersion. India 24/7 was just too much. We started "splurging" on slightly better food, slightly nicer accommodations (being young and hardy grad students, this usually meant spending $1 on a meal, as opposed to 50 cents, and $7 on a room, as opposed to $5). It is a country of paradoxes - disgusting wealth, rampant poverty, unhappy rich sneering at street kids who respond by flashing some of the most beautiful smiles you've ever seen; revolting and fascinating; unbelievable kindness and unimaginable nastiness. All this, all at once. Some people say you'll either love it or hate it. I think it's possible to experience both at the same time. Travel safely.
— Julia McCraw, Seattle, WA

be preprared to be in sensory overload. If you have the opportunity stay one night at Manvar Desert Camp. Forts are not to be missed. Difficult to go out at night alone - you'll be hassled. You're headed to one of my favorite countries.
— Jerrol, Seattle

I have lived in India (1979 with husband and 2 young daughters in Chandigar) and visited once again in 1993. When will you arrive at the Delhi airport? If you arrive at night, have someone at the imformation desk take you outside and put you and your luggage into a taxi. Prebook a hotel before you arrive. When in a car driving through city traffic, look out your side window; looking out the front window is TOO SCARY! Rajastan and the Amer Palace which you will get to on the back of an elephant are just sublime. Mumbai is too much..to understand and to accept. Poverty, extreme desperate poverty in a third world country is mind blowing for westerners. People will do anything to make a few cents. Have fun. Be careful what and where you eat.
— Cathy Rouyer, Seattle, WA

Hi Carol:

I am looking forward to following your trip to India on the Web. During WW II I spent 2 years in India and Burma. I was a B24 pilot with 354 squadron stationed at Cuttack, in Orison State, then was with the 2nd Battalion of the Black Watch as Liaison Officer. We trained at Agra so I used to fly around the Taj Mahal in a F24 Fairchild airplane. The Maharaja allowed the officers to ride the horses in his stable, so I took advantage his generosity. Archie Wavel, a son of the Vice-Roy of India, General Wavel, was an officer in our Black Watch Battalion, and he arranged for 10 Navy Nurses (Wrens) from the British Navy Hospital in Ceylon to spend the weekend in New Delhi, and attend a dinner at the Palace with General Wavel. The officers in our Battalion were invited for dinner also, then afterwards we all went to the dance at a country club. There were over 25 dinner guests at the dinner with a waiter behind each one of us. This was probably the last big celebration for General Wavel as Vice-Roy because he was replaced by Lord Louis Mountbatten the next week. We were then inspected by Lord Louis Mountbatten where he shook the hands of all the officer's, and wished us luck, before going into Burma. We then went by a special troop train, (mostly flat cars), to Imphal, in Upper Assam, where we went by glider into Burma behind the Japanese lines. We were called the Chindits. We were in Burma for almost 4 months when I contacted typhus and was evacuated back into India. I ended in Hyderabad at the British Army Hospital. I shook hands with Lord Louis Mountbatten for the second time while he was visiting the hospital. During my recovery in the hospital I stayed for a few days with the manager of all the trains in Hyderabad. He and his wife were invited by the Maharaja of Hyderabad to a dance at the country club, so they invited me to accompany them. One of his 16 wives was there at the dance with the Maharaja. During recovery I went by train for a week to Missouri in the Himalayan mountains, then back to Bombay, to wait for a plane back to England.

There have been many changes in India since I was there, but unfortunately, the poor people are still there. You just have to accept the fact that there are so many poor people that you are unable to help, while you enjoy the many wonderful things to see.

Good luck. Have a wonderful time.

— Bob Riddell, Bellevue, WA

India was, by far, the most fascinating place I have ever been. In some ways it is a very easy place to visit (e.g., English speakers are numerous, people love talking with you and no one is afraid to discuss anything the government is not listening) and in some ways very difficult (e.g., poverty is very much in your face, the immense entrepreneurial skill of India sometimes seems to be wholly focused on more-or-less legally separating you from your money). Im not entirely sure why I found it so interesting. Maybe it is the extraordinary culture and history (however haphazardly maintained), and the distinct though communicable perspective on our western world that results. Maybe it is how India achieves progress amidst cheerful chaos. Maybe it is how India does not pretend to be something other than it is; it seems to be comfortable with itself without being satisfied with itself. I recently read of a poll in which people in various countries were asked to rate the contributions of various other countries as well as their own; India was the only country which was rated higher by foreigners than by locals. I was not surprised. Unlike many visitors, I was unimpressed by its religion (though Im glad I visited the holy city of Varanasi, it the only place in India to which I have no desire to return). A few suggestions. Travel on the trains. The mid-classes (2A, 3A, and even SL) are arranged for conviviality and have lots of enthusiastic English speakers; if you like to talk with people you will have a great time. Walk, especially in smaller towns like Jaisalmer. Since streets rarely go in the same direction for very long, if you want to avoid getting lost (and you may not) you may want to limit aimless wandering to small towns and to daylight (and either have a compass, a good landmark thats visible most everywhere like Jaisalmer Fort, or at least be able to navigate by the sun). Local tours are often excellent value; if you are a little off the westerners beaten track, you may even have the interesting experience of being amidst Indian tourists, which in such places may greatly outnumber the westerners. The local more-or-less official tourist reception center is a good starting place, an enterprising local Indian taxi driver (enterprising is a redundant adjective for Indian taxi driver) is sometimes even better (especially if you have some clue as to the possibilities). I especially remember a fine tour in the countryside around Jodhpur in a local taxi. I also remember a trip out to the very interesting village of Khuri from Jaisalmer in a local taxi (jeep, actually). Try staying at least once at a hotel that caters to the Indian middle-class (rather than westerners). Such places are quite clean and pleasant, quite inexpensive, and in various subtle ways provide a different experience. They may be a bit away from where most westerners congregate (though some are usually not far from the main railroad station and the main bus station).!

I remember being awakened by the Muslim call to prayer in one such in Aurangabad. For what its worth, I never had digestive problems (I did catch a bad cold). It was probably a combination of care and dumb luck. I ate vegetarian in India you dont miss much, if anything, by doing so - and followed the usual rules about only eating hot food or fruit you can peel, etc. Anyway, Delhi belly is not inevitable.
— Bruce Danielson, Seattle, WA