Big Ben still a big man in Philadelphia

PHILADELPHIA — So who was Benjamin Franklin, anyway?

Almost as soon as tour guide Kyle Farley asks the question, hands shoot up.

"A ladies' man," a voice cries out.

"The first American."

"A journalist and writer."

Franklin, one of the most revered figures in American history, was a Renaissance man credited with establishing some of this country's most important institutions — the library, the post office, the fire department. It's no wonder people can't agree on a single label.

Inventor? Runaway indentured servant? Diplomat?

"A terrible family man," offers one man. After all, Franklin spent years in London away from his wife and daughter.

To Philadelphia, no doubt Franklin means tourism, especially this year as the city continues to celebrate the tercentenary of his birth on Jan. 17, 1706. From pajama parties to demonstrations of electricity to light shows, there's always something Franklin going on.

The centerpiece of the celebration, the wonderful exhibit "Benjamin Franklin: In Search of a Better World," has closed at Philadelphia's National Constitution Center but continues through Sept. 4 at the Missouri History Museum in St. Louis.

Always close at hand

Anniversary year or not, in historic Philadelphia, Franklin is never more than a few steps away. Walking tours are abundant, and they help to understand not only Franklin but also his times.

In 1776 "Philadelphia is tiny, but is by far the largest city in America with 40,000 people," said Farley, one of the owners of Poor Richard's Walking Tours. "London, by contrast, has 800,000 people ... for Americans (Philadelphia) is a dense metropolis."

Farley and his co-workers, graduate students or recent doctoral grads like Farley at the University of Pennsylvania, take visitors to some of Philadelphia's most historic and Franklin-worthy sites, such as Carpenters' Hall, where Franklin and the First Continental Congress met, and City Tavern, which he frequented.

In the mid-18th century, Farley noted, Europeans thought America was a backwater, not worthy of their respect. Franklin was the exception — and even then for only one reason.

"There's only one thing Franklin does that is important to Europe and that is an experiment with a kite and a key. None of his other achievements matters. For a guy who lives in the middle of nowhere to figure this out is astounding. The most important scientists in London all want to meet him."

Franklin's other achievements? Europe yawned.

"A lot of the things he invented, Europe takes for granted," Farley said. "For example: He founded the University of Pennsylvania. They have Oxford.

"Our best stuff from the 18th century doesn't compare to their 13th. They were paranoid about this in the 18th century. Benjamin Franklin bridged it."

So Franklin was ahead of his time. Doesn't mean he's easy to peg.

He was a paradox in many ways, Farley said on a stop inside St. Peter's Church, which was established in 1761.

"He wants to be friends with everybody. He wants to publish Quakers but he disagrees with them on pacifism. The same thing with Anglicans, Presbyterians."

Like many colonists, he wasn't even sure about revolution at first.

"In 1765 everybody is a loyalist," Farley said. "By 1776 people have to choose sides. You're gambling your family, your fortune and your life.

"Take the loyalists seriously. Their arguments for being loyalists are every bit as cohesive as those for being a patriot. As for Ben Franklin, he's torn."

Franklin didn't switch sides until very late in the game, Farley said. "Instead he tries to use his power of persuasion to make changes. He feels like the mother country is mistreating her children. He wants to bridge that gap."

Yet Franklin went on to sign the Declaration of Independence, adopted in Philadelphia, and secured his place among patriot heroes.

As the tours stopped by the graves of Franklin and his wife, Deborah, at Christ Church Burial Ground, Farley noted that it is a popular spot with an odd tradition.

"Brides would throw a penny on his grave for good luck in the 19th century," he said. "Now people see others throwing a penny and they think they're supposed to do it."

It might make Franklin chuckle. After all, wasn't he the man who said, "A penny saved is a penny earned?"