Readers' comments and questions

Our daughter and daughter-in-law are returning today from a trip to Italy and France. They had just boarded a train in Milan for an overnight to Paris when our daughter got up to get something to drink and left our duaghter-in-law along in the compartment. A man came up on the outside of the train, which was still at the station, and was asking our daughter-in-law about his ticket, like he was confused. After he left, the girls discovered that one of their bags, with our daughter's camera, cell phone, and souveniers, was missing. Apparently, someone grabbed the bag while our daughter-in-law was distracted. Just a hint, don't take your eyes off of things, even for a second.
— Harry Kautzman, Woodinville

Thanks for sharing your experience, and this excellent advice. Unfortunately, Italian trains, especially those leaving big cities such as Milan, Rome and Naples, are ripe territory for those who prey on unsuspecting tourists. Never leave your bags anywhere, in a station or on the train, not even for a minute or two, and be careful of anyone who offers to "help'' you with your bag while you are getting off or on a train — including children. Bring a cable lock for your bag that you can attach to the overhead storage area on the train.

Carol, I enjoyed reading your article. Molise is truly a gem. I was born in Agnone (IS). If you get a chance to visit this town and surrounding areas, you will be delighted.

Regards,
— Luciano Iarusso, Shelby Twp., MI

I really enjoyed your article about Matera. My husband and I stayed at Locanda di San Martino last summer. We were fascinated by what we saw in Matera!

Sitting out on a balcony sipping Prosecco and watching the lights come on in the sassi at dusk will be a sight we will always remember.
— Ann Carter Edmonds, WA

Yes, dear Carol, even if I have never met you before this afternoon on the Web, I am honored after the reading of your fascinating articles about the south of Italy. I am a Sicilian teacher and I was surfing the net like the swordfish do in my Tyrrenian and Ionian seas. I am writing a diary about a trip mixed between Lynnwood and Sicily. I have never visited Seattle, but I know it's gorgeous because I have a friend who lives there and he described to me your town, so I say he is my eyes in the USA and I am his eyes in Sicily. My island is only a fairy that charms, I used to say. A famous Sicilian writer, Sciascia, tells that Sicily has two souls. On the east part, there is the area under the ancient influence of the Greeks and the Romans; this is more philosophical and caring about the inner aspects. The west part is the area moreover under the influence of Arab and Spanish dominations; it's more sensual and passionate.
—Milli, Sicily

I am enjoying your travels in southern Italy. My folks came from Civita-Cozenza Calabria.The area is known for its licorice roots which provide all types of licorice.The licorice roots are found in the coastal regions of Calabria. The Italian licorice brand name is Amarelli. Looking forward to your next article.
— Larry Merlino, Las Vegas, NV

I am so happy to see your dispatches from the lesser explored areas of southern Italy. I spent 10 days exploring some of the same regions (including Matera) in 2000. It was a fabulous trip and we relished the fact that there were no other tourists! I also visited some extended family in Sicily in 2003. Your experiences sound familiar, notably the extensive meals. They certainly treated us very well and we ate enough to sustain us for weeks.
— Danika, Seattle, WA

I am thrilled to see your article! I recently read about the Puglia region and am intrigued as I enjoy off the beaten path travel. Our family (2 adults and our 16 year old son and 19 year old daughter) will be in Italy from Dec. 18 - Jan. 3rd. We have about 6 unplanned days in the south. I have been hearing that most remote regions will be "closed" (so to speak) and we have been discouraged in going beyond the Amalfi coast/Sorrento area. We do not have a problem with being the only tourists. Do you think it is worth our while, in Dec., to venture into more remote areas? It definitely appeals to me, but I want to be sure we are not ignoring warnings that we should heed. Thank you so much for any advice!
— Liz Bart, Bow, WA

For starters, Puglia (also called Apulia) isn't all that remote in that it's a very popular and populated region full of interesting towns that aren't necessarily resort or beach towns that cater only to tourists.

It's true that many places along the coast shut down in the winter, but towns such as Alberbello (home of the little white limestone houses called trulli), Martina Franca, Ostuni, Bari, Lecce etc.) should be fine, and certainly less expensive and less crowded than other times of the year. The agriturismo where I stayed in Conversano, just south of Bari, for instance, stays open year-round, and drops its rates from $157 in summer per night to $102 in winter.

All of these towns have interesting and beautiful historical centers worth exploring, with lots of good restaurants, art galleries, museums, churches etc. to easily keep you busy for six days, and late December will be a festive time of the year. While you might not see many other foreign tourists, there will be lots of locals around, and from what I could tell, they certainly know how to enjoy life. You'll no doubt get a warm welcome, and maybe you'll be lucky enough to share in some of their Christmas and New Year's celebrations.

I'll be writing about Puglia later this week, so stay tuned. In the meantime, check See www.pugliaturismo.com for more information about Puglia. The Cadogan guide to the Bay of Naples and Southern Italy is another good source.
— C.P.

I've really enjoyed your stories on southern Italy! I traveled from Rome to Amalfi last fall, but the highlight was visiting my maternal grandparents hometown, San Marco la Catola. It's a classic ancient hill town surrounding the ruins of an old castle, and it's claim to fame is that Padre Pio spent time studying there. But it's nearly impossible to find on anything but the largest, most detailed maps. I looked up my grandparents birth records and found the house where my grandmother was born. The cemetery was filled with the names of many Seattle immigrant families. Picking figs from a tree in the church courtyard, I flashed back to childhood memories of going to church at Our Lady of Mount Virgin, the former Catholic missionary in Seattle's Mount Baker district. To get to San Marco, we took a train from Naples to Foggia (which was like a miniature Rome laid out around an ancient core) and then took a $100 cab ride from our hotel in Foggia (where we stayed at the wonderful Hotel Mercure Cicolella).

I agree, there's plenty to see in southern Italy that Rick Steves never talks about.

By the way, Gretchen and I might have eaten at the same Naples restaurant that you did. It was only about $20 for two wonderful pasta/clam dishes and a couple of glasses of wine.

Carol,

Nice article about Matera. My wife read your article and commented that she remembers the controversy when Carlo Levi's article came out. It's interesting how things come full circle. Chic transforms into commonplace and vice versa.

As for me, now I am wondering if your articles are going to ruin everything. For all the times that I have been in Bari and seen the autostrada signs: Matera, I have never been there. Now with your article, I will have to wait another 10 years until the hords of tourist subside. I think I am about to change my views and turn from expounding on the beauty of Southern Italy to a proponent of the late Emmett Watson's strategy (Lesser Seattle). We will discourage visiting the backwards, filthy, corrupt, third world region of Italy. We can call the promotion: Povere Puglia.

At first, I thought the picture was of Ostuni, the White City, about 90 minutes South of Bari, on the coast. Attached is the link:
www.stonepages.com/apulia/sites/ostuni.html
— Gene Fioretti

We go to Italy almost every year and know amazing factory outlets. Don't know any in the area you are featuring. Can you fill us in — not outlet malls but at real factory outlets? Thanks.
— Barb Hershberg, Vancouver, B.C.

I didn't see many of these in the parts of southern Italy where I traveled, but I did see some. See www.zerodelta.net for the names, addresses and opening hours on three in Molise. There are also a few suggestions at www.dolcevita.com/outlets/region/abruzzo.html. If you're interested in gourmet food items, the south is home to Italy's most famous pasta, as this site points out, and it's possible to find bargains almost everywhere on Mediterranean gourmet items. Besides pastas and wine, stock up on capers packed in salt. I found small packages in grocery stores for $1.30 They cost $6-$7 for a small jar here. Also limoncello, the refreshing Italian liquor made with the rind of fresh lemons, alcohol and sugar. Grocery stores sell it for about $6 a bottle.
— C.P.

All of my wife's family came from southern Italy in the late 1800s. Did you get to Valsinni (MT)? It is about 10 miles inland from Policoro. We will be there in September to celebrate our 25th anniversary, renew our vows in the local church and meet 40 family members over 3 days.
—Jim Pearson, Federal Way, WA

I did not get there, but it sounds like another great find!
— C.P.

Hi Carol, My parents came from Castelmezzano in the Basilicate region. A great place to visit now that modern conveniences are available. A town with lots of trees and both a Greek and Spanish history along with everything else. An out-of-way place, with great cheese and people.
— Joseph Campagna, Missoula, Mt.

Often overlooked in Positano is a lovely hotel, Buca Di Baco, with amazing restaurant. It's on the beach. We stayed for a week and used it for a base to travel the area.
— Barb Hershberg, Vancouver, B.C.

Your comment about Rick Steves' Italy book reminded me of when I was in Rome last November. Just about every American tourist I saw (and unfortunately, in Rome we're easy to pick out of a crowd) had a copy of one of Rick's books in their hands. It seems to be reaching a point where the stuff Rick points people to is more theme park than "back door."
— Orin O'Neill, Seattle, WA

Am willing to assist people who have questions about visiting the lovely region of Abruzzo in Italy.
— Stefano Ulissi, Teramo, Abruzzo
ulissi@hotmail.com

Hi, Carol, I can't believe what you have discovered! How amazing that 4/5ths of Italian Americans come from southern Italy, but the guide books have foolishly focused on the north. Thank you for writing about the stone city of Matera — it looks fascinating. I look forward to more of your insight into southern Italy and I plan to follow in your footsteps.
Thank you.
— J. Turner, Edmonds, WA