On the road with "The Da Vinci Code"

What do Paris and Milan have in common? That's easy ... breezy fashions, massive cathedrals, tired tourists and Dan Brown's bestseller "The Da Vinci Code." So, if you're a fan of the book and headed to Paris or Milan, two of the biggest, most talked about sights — Paris' Louvre Museum and the painting of The Last Supper in Milan — are must-see destinations.

As millions of devoted readers know, much of the novel (and the movie) "The Da Vinci Code" is set in Paris. And several tour companies, such as Paris Walks (www.paris-walks.com), have put together walking tours based on the book to satisfy tourists' curiosity. Allow about two hours and $16 for the experience.

First on the Code's sightseeing list is the Louvre's Grand Gallery, where curator Jacques Sauniere leaves a number of cryptic messages. His murder sets off the hunt, as the protagonist, Robert Langdon, and police cryptologist Sophie Neveu follow clues hidden in art, history, and religious lore to solve the murder and track down the Holy Grail.

Dan Brown also sets other scenes at the Louvre, including in the gallery displaying Da Vinci's Mona Lisa, the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, where the crime-solving duo drive off into the night; and under the inverted pyramid in the underground Carrousel du Louvre, which in real life is a shopping mall.

The Louvre is Paris' artistic triumph where you can also wave hello to the curvy Venus de Milo statue and other masterpieces. Save time by buying your Louvre admission ticket from the self-serve ticket machines instead of standing in longer lines at the ticket windows. Tickets cost about $11, but are discounted to $8 on Wednesday and Friday evenings, when the Louvre crowds thin out and you can imagine Langdon and Neveu roaming the halls searching for clues.

Cashing in on the mother lode of "The Da Vinci Code," the Louvre recently added a new $13 audioguide tour called "Step Inside The Da Vinci Code" with actor Jean Reno, who portrays Bezu Fache, the gruff police captain, in the film, narrating the tour.

The book includes a scene on Paris' famous Left Bank, in which one of the baddies chases down a "keystone" that will reveal the Grail, supposedly located in St. Sulpice Church.

But a better reason to visit St. Sulpice is to see and hear its intimately accessible organ. For pipe-organ enthusiasts, it's one of Europe's great musical treats. Current keyboardist Daniel Roth continues the church's long tradition of welcoming guests in three languages, while playing five keyboards at once. Every Sunday morning the door to the organ loft opens after the 10:30 Mass, allowing visitors to scamper like little 16th notes up to see Roth perform the next Mass. You'll have 30 minutes to kill before the organ plays. If you're late or rushed, show up around 12:30 and — as someone leaves — you can slip in, climb up, and catch the rest of the performance. There also are concerts: for information on dates, go to www.danielrothsaintsulpice.org

The crime solvers of "The Da Vinci Code" dip down into Italy, specifically to Milan's Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. This is where Leonardo Da Vinci's painting of The Last Supper has inspired viewers for centuries. But because of the hype surrounding the book, which asserts that Mary Magdalene is depicted in the painting, tickets are sold at least a month in advance so plan ahead.

To make a reservation, book online at www.cenacolovinciano.org Admission is $10, including the reservation fee. Only 25 tourists at a time are allowed in — every 15 minutes for 15 minutes — to commune with The Last Supper.

You probably won't see Mary in the painting, but you won't see much of Jesus either. Because of Leonardo's experimental fresco technique, deterioration of the mural began within six years of its completion. The 21-year restoration project (completed in 1999) peeled away 500 years of touch-ups, leaving a faint but thrilling masterpiece.

While "The Da Vinci Code" may be a good read, it's light on accurate history, since Dan Brown took a lot of creative license in his storytelling. Still, tours and independent travelers can enjoy the Grail trail. With a stellar sightseeing lineup that includes the Louvre, St. Sulpice and The Last Supper, it's easy to do. Case closed.

Rick Steves writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio.