WINTHROP, Okanogan County — Thursday, Sept. 29 — I've made it to the east side of the mountains, and it's finally stopped pouring rain.

After days of sparkling sunshine, I left Seattle this morning at 7:30 as a solid line of dark gray clouds hung across Puget Sound like a fleet of battleships that had taken Bainbridge Island prisoner.

By the time I headed east on the North Cascades Highway out of Sedro-Woolley, rain pelted down like it would never stop. Having dreamt of a joyous sunny cruise over the high mountain pass, instead I got a rude reminder from the weather gods: This is the Pacific Northwest, and it's darn near October.

Still, as I headed upward in the Car of Discovery – my name for the rented Prius, with a wink at Lewis and Clark – vine maples still glowed red and yellow from avalanche chutes on high hillsides. Weird, spindly larches still showed their golden color through the cloud shrouding Liberty Bell Mountain.

In respect to the day, I stopped at Rainy Pass, pulled on my rain parka and duck boots and did a two-mile roundtrip trot to Rainy Lake. It's a paved trail, wheelchair accessible, with nature-trail interpretive panels. Not quite a wilderness experience, but then I didn't disappear into any black lagoons in the middle of the trail, either. It had been too long since I'd sucked in lungfuls of the sweet, spicy aroma of alpine firs, all the more pungent in the rain-washed air.

The lake, with a cataract waterfall dropping a couple thousand feet down a mountainside at the far end, was my private alpine experience. For a minute, until I realized I was getting really, really wet, and got the hell back to the car.

The Methow River is merely a stream this time of year, but there's still enough water for some — I passed a fly fisherman, looking appropriately outdoorsy and peaceful.

Still miles to go before I sleep. On to Republic for the night. No more slapping wipers – hooray!

Reader tips

Here's a selection of tips readers sent Brian today:

My husband and I moved here three years ago. Like you, we're born and raised Seattleites. Here are some tips about "509ers":
1. Anything west of the Cascades is "the coast" and the people there are "coasties." It really is easier to answer "I'm going to the coast" than to explain that I'm visiting family in Fife or Ballard.
2. When you hear a horn honk or see someone gesturing, they are saying hello. It took us a while to get used to that friendliness.
3. Pop's Drive-In in Moses Lake is great... best Reubens around and they'll try deep frying anything...onions, asparagus, Twinkies. Enjoy your trip!
— Susan, Moses Lake, Wash.

For onion rings stop at Minors in Yakima and the Ice-Burg in Walla Walla, both locally owned by the same families for eons. While at the Ice-Burg, ask for a scotch and soda. You will love it.
— Judy, Walla Walla

Get rid of that car and get a 4-wheel drive Ford or Chevy or Dodge before they run you out of town.
— Doug Dunn, Seattle

The Methow Valley is blue amongst the red, so your car should blend right in.
— Rick Lewis, Winthrop, Wash.

Don't come with preconceived notions. Expect the unexpected and enjoy the sunny side of the state. Contrary to belief, we are a civilized bunch and can be quite likeable.
— Peter Dauer, Entiat, Wash.

Cinnamon rolls at Merchants on Main Street and a latte at Bob's Backstage Bistro on Main and Palouse are the best. Onion rings at the Ice-Burg on Birch. So many good places to visit and eat in Walla Walla, you will need to stay for at least a week.
— Janie Millgard, Walla Walla

More reader tips »