ABOARD THE COAST STARLIGHT, Calif. — The sea was the color of pewter, with bands of sunlight forcing their way through a thick cloud cover. The broad hump of Santa Cruz Island dominated the horizon. Surfers bobbed in the shoreline swells.

There was ample opportunity to drink in this view of California's central coast, just north of Ventura while aboard the Coast Starlight train. Because we were stopped dead on the tracks. Interminably. Without explanation.

The moment encapsulated the yin and the yang of Amtrak rail travel.

Through good fortune, rails were long ago laid along the very edge of the California shore. Today's leisure traveler is the beneficiary, treated to magnificent coastal sights that, in many cases, can't be reached by car or even foot. They can only be seen from the picture windows of this train.

Information

Amtrak: The base one-way fare for a reserved coach seat between Seattle and Los Angeles on the Coast Starlight is $104 one way. Discount fares sometimes are offered. More info: www.amtrak.com

The drawback is that Amtrak, which operates most passenger rail service in this country, can push your patience to the absolute limit with its delays (some of which are beyond its control), chronically late trains and shoulder-shrugging employees.

Thus a rail traveler must continually balance ecstasy against agony.

"It's not their fault," said Roberta Shapiro of Salt Spring Island, British Columbia, as we shared a dining car table on a recent northbound run. "They have to stop for all the freight trains. You feel bad for them, because they're always having to apologize."

Indeed, I heard one announcement so often, I wondered if maybe the train staff should have shirts printed up, bearing the message: "We apologize for the inconvenience and thank you for your patience."

Shapiro, whose emphysema prevents her from flying, had traversed the country with husband Stan on the Sunset Limited before boarding the Coast Starlight for the ride to Seattle. After they related the requisite horror stories — 13-hour bus rides, desperately delayed arrivals — Roberta smiled brightly and said, "You really need a spirit of adventure."

"And lots of time," chimed in Stan.

Here at the dawn of the 21st century, the rail passenger tends to be a special animal, someone seeking a different travel experience. On my recent along the coast, I encountered seniors inclining an ear for the nostalgic clickety-clack of the rails, baby boomers hoping to relive a cherished childhood memory, international tourists keen on seeing America up close, and families loath to fight freeways (and the kids) on a long-haul drive.

All are drawn to a train ride that many rail enthusiasts consider the most scenic in the country.

" The Coast Starlight runs daily between Seattle and Los Angeles, offering sleeper accommodations and coach seats on a trip of 35 hours. On either train, the experience is much more civilized than air travel, with spacious seats and a dining car. The Sightseer Lounge has domed windows for optimal viewing of all that superb scenery. The sleeper-class passengers have a similar car just for their use, with wine-tasting sessions convened each afternoon and a movie theater on the lower level. As the train rolls along, the gentle rocking of the cars seems to have a universal effect on passengers — supreme relaxation. It's amusing to see how many adults nod off on naps in the early afternoon.