Shanghai goes chic as China's showcase

Shanghai lacks the grand monuments and ancient palaces of Beijing, China's capital, but this bustling commercial center has plenty of unique attractions of its own — and what promises to be the biggest World Expo ever this year.

Shanghai is gearing up for its role as China's showcase for the May 1-Oct. 31 Expo, whose theme is "Better City, Better Life," by remaking itself into the country's most chic and modern city. Dozens of nations will have pavilions and displays in a special Expo site that spans both sides of the Huangpu River in the heart of the city.

Here's how to enjoy Shanghai — but just be aware that the city of more than 13 million people will be busier than ever during the Expo, when 70 million visitors are expected:

What to see: Shanghai has only a handful of "must see" locations, topped perhaps by Yuyuan Gardens, located near the city temple in the center of what used to be the old walled city. It has carp-filled pools and pavilions, plus rockeries and pine trees. Near downtown, it's a brief walk from the city's No. 8 subway line through neighborhoods of two-story shop-houses, a vanishing lifestyle in this city obsessed with trading old for new.

Just outside the Yuyuan Gardens is the historic Huxinting teahouse and a huge bazaar. Wander through the crowds — weekdays are a bit less jammed than weekends — through a warren of shops selling silk blouses, tea and tourist kitsch.

Not far from Yuyuan Gardens is the Shiliupu ferry pier — a terminal for cruises along the city's Huangpu river. It costs about 50 fen (about 7 cents) for a ferry ride to Dongchang Road and the glittering financial showcase of the Pudong neighborhood on the east side of the river.

Once in Pudong, a short walk north takes you to the Riverside Promenade, which has broad, stunning views of the Bund (on the west side of the river), the busy river traffic — and scores of skyscrapers.

If it's a clear day, you might splurge on a 150 yuan ($22) ticket to the top of the Shanghai World Financial Center, whose transparent floors allow a look 100 floors straight down, and to the horizon in all directions.

The Bund is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Shanghai, a riverfront area of historical, colonial-style buildings and walkways. It has been closed for about two years for reconstruction — enlarging the riverfront promenade and putting roadways underground — and is due to reopen on March 28.

Near the Bund is Nanjing Road, Shanghai's most famous shopping street, and People's Square. It's the location of several other key sights, including the city's renowned Shanghai Museum and the Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, with its huge, detailed model of the city now and into the future.

Take a walk through the French Concession, one of several zones controlled by foreigners before and during World War II. And stroll through Xintiandi, a cluster of renovated "shikumen" traditional buildings housing elegant coffee shops, clubs and boutiques.

Farther afield, a quick trip to Longhua Temple, on the No. 1 subway line, is a nice antidote to the crowding, noise and traffic of the center city. In the sprawling, quiet compound, worshippers burn incense and prostrate themselves before seemingly countless golden Buddhas.

Getting around: The good news is that although most Shanghainese speak only their own local dialect and Mandarin Chinese, city street signs and maps in subway stations include both Chinese and "English," or Roman-letter (known here as "Pinyin") names.

Notices posted in cabs offer a free English-speaking hotline for visitors having trouble communicating with taxi drivers.

When walking, keep an eye out for traffic, especially scooters and bikes. It comes from all directions, even on the sidewalk.

Good eating: Shanghai has long been renowned for its talented chefs and excellent dining. With few exceptions, the city offers good value for the money, whatever the cuisine.

Shanghainese dishes tend to be relatively sweet and rich, without the stronger, hotter flavors of northern and western China. One highlight is xiaolongbao, dumplings plump full of piping hot, succulent juice — bite carefully. Locals swear by the Nanxiang Xiaolongbao outlet in the bazaar outside Yuyuan Garden, but be prepared to wait in a long queue, even in the off hours, for a plate costing just a few dollars.

Wujiang Road, which branches off of Nanjing Road, is a pedestrian street with a smorgasbord of options, inexpensive and otherwise. Other filling and affordable choices include Cantonese dim sum, especially at any of the city's Bifengtang restaurants, Korean barbecue or Japanese set meals for well under $10 a head.

Where to stay: For low-budget accommodations, the youth hostels that generally serve backpackers and students can be a good option, starting at about 45 yuan (under $7) per night. Shanghai has eight clean, convenient youth hostels, most of them centrally located. A favorite pick is the Captain Youth Hostel, at 37 Fuzhou Road, just off the Bund. The hostel's sixth-floor bar has views of the river, and all rooms have hot-water baths, 24-hour reception service, free Internet access, free movie, free tourism information and luggage storage.

Another safe option is to book a room at a chain hotel — the Greentree Inn, Motel 168 and Hanting hotels all have many good locations and cost less than $30 a night for a room with all the basics. And there's a wide choice of more midlevel and upscale hotels, including many Western chains such as Marriott, Westin and Hilton.

When to go: Shanghai is best visited in the autumn or spring. Winters are cold and damp, and summers sweltering hot. Whenever you visit, take an umbrella. Shanghai is often rainy.

More information

• Shanghai: China National Tourist Office: www.cnto.org/shanghai.asp

• World Expo: http://en.expo2010.cn

Kristin Jackson of Seattle Times Travel contributed to this report.