A lovely Christmas in Goa, India

When I went to India last winter, I never planned to spend Christmas in Goa, but that's exactly where I ended up. I started out my three-month trip in November touring the densely populated northern states of Utter Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan. By mid-December, I was completely exhausted and needed a respite from the dust, stench and sea of humanity that engulfed me everyday.

Goa is the only state in India that is Christian — Roman Catholic to be exact; therefore, it is the only state that officially celebrates Christmas. Goa was colonized by the Portuguese in 1510 with the goal of controlling the spice trade. They didn't leave until 1961, 14 years after the independence of India from England. As a result of this long period of colonization, Goa feels very European in comparison to the rest of Hindu and Muslim India.

So, like hundreds of other tourists, Christians and non-Christians alike, I booked my overnight train on the third-class sleeper car from Mumbai to Goa.

It felt strange to be suddenly transported to this other India with Jolly Old Saint Nicks, Christmas trees and candy canes. Here, simple dresses and Levi jeans replaced saris and salwar kameez. Elvis Presley and Roy Orbison spilled out into the street instead of Hindu chants and the Muslim call to prayer. I have to admit it felt good. I get this culture, I know how to act and what to expect here, unlike the other India outside Goa.

On Christmas Day, I went to the beach. I swam in the warm tropical sea and basked in the midday heat. Most of the foreigners at the beach were with family or friends having simple dinners in beach-front shacks. I invited a Hindu Indian friend, working in Goa, to join me for a Christmas meal. He graciously accepted. After dinner I took a taxi up the coastal road to the nearest town with a church.

I arrived just in time for midnight mass at Kelsie Catholic Church. Although the mass was held in the local Konkanian language, the rituals were all familiar. After mass, folks dressed up in their very best slowly filtered out of the church and greeted family, friends and neighbors. I strolled back to my hotel room, happy with my decision to come to Goa.

Several days later I left this gentler, quieter, cleaner India and boarded a train back to Mumbai. As I sat watching Indian life pass before me, I was grateful to have had the opportunity to experience the holiday season Goan style; a spicy blend of peace, love and warmth carefully mixed together like a delicious cup of masala tea.

Denise LaFountaine lives in Seattle

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