What's new in Spain, Portugal and northern Morocco

Sunny Spain and Portugal, along with Morocco's gateway city of Tangier, beckon travelers who delight in ornate architecture, authentic culture, and people-watching strolls in the cool of the evening. Here's what to expect if you visit this year.

Spain: In Barcelona, the curvy Palau Guell should reopen in 2008, offering the public a chance to see one of the finest interiors designed by the city's most famous architect, Antonio Gaudi. To track down more great architecture by Gaudi and his Modernista buddies, stop into the tourist information office (at Placa de Catalunya), where you can get discounted tickets and a helpful route map showing all of the city's Modernista buildings.

In Madrid, the Prado Museum's expansion continues in 2008 and may jumble the museum's layout. A new memorial at the Atoche Metro station remembers the victims of the March 11, 2004 terrorist bombing. Walk beneath the 36-foot-high glass cylinder to read thousands of condolence messages in many languages. Interactive terminals allow you to leave a handprint or a message, or watch a memorial video.

Toledo's El Greco Museum will likely be closed for renovation through 2008, but its 20 El Greco paintings will be on display at the nearby Victorio Macho Museum. Toledo's Alcazar — the fortress that evokes so much Civil War history emotion among Spaniards — will hold Spain's National Military Museum when it reopens, hopefully in 2008.

Granada's Alhambra, a fortress built by the Moors to keep out the Christians, now welcomes everyone, especially those with a reservation. (All others wait in a long line.) When you book your hotel room, ask if your hotelier can make an Alhambra reservation for you; many offer this as a service to their guests. Or you can get tickets online at www.alhambra-tickets.es.

In Seville, the town's grand boulevard — the Avenida de la Constitucion, once thundering with noisy traffic — is now a pedestrian-only thoroughfare. Suddenly cafes and shops along Seville's main paseo have appeal. This is a good opportunity to see how the character of a city changes when a major thoroughfare goes traffic-free. To make your strolling even more enjoyable, Sevillae (like cities all over Spain) stretches sail-like canopies across the streets in the height of summer to offer a little relief from the fierce sun.

Morocco: The North African city of Tangier remains a popular day-trip from resorts along Spain's south coast. It has shed its "Tijuana of Morocco" image, thanks to the new king, who is promoting tourism and investing heavily in the city's infrastructure. The town is as Moroccan as ever, yet more enjoyable and less stressful. The Spanish town of Tarifa is the best base for this quick little African detour. It's a simple one-hour fast boat from there to Tangier, where you can explore on your own, or with a private guide.

If you're wondering about the proposed tunnel linking Spain and Morocco, it's now in the serious study and planning stage, and both countries hope to begin the 15-year building project within a few years. The vision: In the year 2025 trains will zip under the nine-mile wide Strait of Gibraltar, making those "fast boats to Africa" suddenly seem very slow.

Portugal: While Portugal's economy is thriving, the capital city of Lisbon is still rife with petty thieves. Most Lisbon pickpocketing takes place on the trolleys. Enjoy the ride, but keep an eye on your belongings.

Lisbon's central Rossio train station has been remodeled but still hasn't reopened, due to construction of a massive tunnel under a nearby roundabout. Other continuing renovations are in Lisbon's Bairro Alto neighborhood: the viewpoint terrace and the Sao Roque Church and Museum. Rumors suggest that all of these sites will reopen in early 2008. After years of renovation, Lisbon's bullring is now open, offering curious tourists a chance to see a traditional Portuguese bullfight. The bull leaves the ring alive — and it's the matador who's generally left bloodied.

And at the pilgrimage destination of Fatima, the Church of the Holy Trinity finally opened this past fall. The gigantic modern church has a capacity of 9,000, providing much-needed room for the large number of pilgrims who couldn't begin to fit inside the town's 900-seat basilica. Whether you're a participant or just an onlooker, the religious festival that erupts here around the 13th of nearly every month is a spectacle you'll never forget.

Travelers seeking world-famous art and architecture, a bustling Islamic city, or a Catholic pilgrimage experience will find all these and more in a visit to Spain, Portugal, and north Morocco.

Edmonds-based Rick Steves, www.ricksteves.com