If you go to Murchison Falls National Park

When to go

Wildlife is visible any time, but you will see more elephants during the dry season, January-February.

Getting there

Roads to (and within) Murchison Falls National Park are bumpy and dusty, and four-wheel-drive vehicles are crucial. You can drive yourself, but it's best to have an experienced Ugandan driver.

Tour operators, costs

Tour companies handle logistics, including accommodations and fees such as for ranger/guides. Cost varies by number in party. We used the Kampala-based Impala Car Hire, www.impalasafaris.co.ug. Cost was about $600 per person for transportation, two nights' lodging and all meals at Paraa Lodge, and several game drives. Other tour operators include AfriTours (packages with moderate lodging), www.afritourstravel.com, and Red Chilli Rest Camp (budget and camping tours), www.redchillihideaway.com/paraa.htm.

Safety considerations

The Uganda Wildlife Association declares Murchison Falls park safe for travel. The Ugandan government has recently strengthened its presence in the park and monitors its borders by land and air. We did not feel threatened on either of our trips to Murchison and would not hesitate to go again. Get updates at the U.S. State Dept.: www.travel.state.gov

More information

• Uganda Wildlife Association, www.uwa.or.ug/

• Uganda Travel Guide: www.ugandatravelguide.com/• "Under the Ugandan Sun" is a blog by this article's author, Theresa Morrow, and her husband: http://underugandansun.blogspot.com/.

• For more photos by Charles Steinberg, this story's photographer, see www.charlesandtorkin.com/CharlesSteinbergPhotography/