Touring India on your own

Planning an independent trip to India is one way to funnel your travel dollars directly to local people and provide families with the money to maintain historical homes and sustain traditional village life.

I didn't have to pay $250 a night or stay in five-star hotels to find comfortable rooms that met Western standards for cleanliness. The family-owned hotels and home stays I booked were immaculate, and staffed with people anxious to share their customs, food and culture.

Many British people travel on their own with the help of agents who specialize in independent travel. Several with whom I talked recommended www.responsibletravel.com, an online travel agent based in Brighton, England.

Indiamike.com is a good overall resource for figuring out the logistics of trip planning, how to make train and plane reservations and finding out what other travelers have to say.

Flying is the easiest way to travel long distances. Trains are cheap and good for shorter trips.

You can purchase airline tickets online, on the spot at airports in India or though travel agents. Jet Airways usually rates best for service, but it's the most expensive. Fares are cheaper on government-owned Indian Airlines but service is less reliable. Many travelers like the new discounters such as Kingfisher, Go Air and Air Deccan.

It's a good idea to have advance reservations for trains, especially for overnight trips. Air-conditioned cars fill up fast. For an explanation of the various types of classes and seats, see www.maninseat61.com. Go to www.indianrail.gov.in for schedules and online booking.

— Carol Pucci