Incan capital great place for budget travelers

CUSCO, Peru — Located in the heart of the Andes Mountains at 11,000 feet, the city of Cusco is much more than just a place to get acclimated before tackling the Inca Trail or taking the train to Machu Picchu: It is a destination in itself.

Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire, and it remains the heart of the area today.

With a population of 350,000, Cusco is busy and undeniably touristy but has retained its charm.

At the center of the town is one of the great public squares in South America: Plaza de Armes, which is flanked by a great cathedral, another church, restaurants and shops.

Just above Plaza de Armes is San Blas, an artsy area with quaint shops, hotels and restaurants, and some pedestrian-only streets.

The Incan influence can be felt throughout the city in the original stonework and impressive nearby ruins. When the Spanish invaded in the 1500s, they were unable to dismantle the Incan stonework, so they built right on top of it.

Cusco is a great place for any tourist, but particularly a budget traveler. Double rooms under $30 are easy to come by, and good three- and four-course meals can be as cheap as $1.50 — sometimes including a free glass of wine or pisco sour, a cocktail made from white-grape brandy.

Food varies widely, but regional specialties include trout, alpaca and guinea pig, known as "cuy," roasted and served whole.

Visitors to Cusco are relentlessly hounded by women and children selling postcards, dolls, tiny finger puppets, music CDs and various trinkets at low, negotiable prices. The Peruvian sellers are good-natured and will usually leave you alone after a polite "No, gracias."

Some of the children are heartbreakingly young, and some are surprisingly savvy businessmen. Upon learning that a visitor is American, many will recite: "United States of America. Capital Washington, D.C. President George Bush. First president George Washington."

A popular excursion from Cusco is the Sacred Valley, with several towns of Inca origin and many ruins. The outdoor markets at Pisac are particularly popular. Full-day tours are offered by numerous operators and cost about $12 per person.

— Scott and Julie Hanson