Around Bosnia, Sarajevo

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Where

Bosnia is part of the former Yugoslavia in Southeast Europe on the Balkan Peninsula. It's bordered by Croatia to the north and west and Serbia and Montenegro to the east. Under the Dayton Peace Accord, the region was divided into the Federation of Bosnia (mostly Muslim and Croat) and the Republika Srpska (Serbian). Sarajevo is in the Federation of Bosnia.

Getting there

Sarajevo can be reached by bus from Dubrovnik, Split, Zagreb and other cities in Croatia, and by train from Zagreb. Several airlines, including Croatia Air, Snowflake (a no-frills carrier operated by SAS Airlines) and Austrian Airlines, fly from major European cities.

Restaurants

The Inat Kuca, Veliki Alifakovac 1, Bascarsija. On the river, across from the old library/town hall. Riverfront terrace and upstairs seating in an old Ottoman-style house. Pizza and Bosnian specialties. Inexpensive.

Bosanska Kuca, Bravadziluk, 3, Bascarsija. The best of a string of casual restaurants along a lively pedestrian street. Bosnian specialties. Inexpensive.
 
Club Jez, Zelenih Beretki 14, in the basement of a building near the Orthodox cathedral. Upscale Bosnian and international dining in atmospheric setting. Moderate.

Lodging

The old Turkish quarter of Bascarsija is the best area for sightseeing, cafes, shopping and restaurants.

The Guest House Halvat, Kasima ef. Dobrace 5, is a family-owned pension with five newly-decorated rooms with private bathrooms. Singles, $55 (based on current exchange rates); doubles, $74, including breakfast. See www.halvat.com.ba or call 011-387-33-237-714.

The modern Hotel Vila Orijent, Oprkanj 6, is a more upscale business hotel with 19 rooms. Singles, $90; doubles, $120. Phone 011-387-33-232-702 or e-mail orijent@bih.net.ba

See posjetiti.sarajevo.ba for a list of other hotels.

Traveler's tip

The local currency is the convertible mark (KM). One KM equals about 60 cents at current exchange rates. Cash is available from ATM machines. Many places accept euros and credit cards.

Travel warnings

The U.S. State Department currently has a travel warning in place for 26 countries, including Bosnia (see travel.state.gov), but no one should feel as if they are stepping into a war zone. The average tourist will feel safe in Sarajevo. Many Americans and foreign aid workers live here, and NATO peacekeepers maintain a visible presence.

For additional perspective on safety, check the advice of other governments. Canada's Department of Foreign Affairs, for instance, hones in on specific trouble spots in its travel advisories. In Bosnia, it recommends avoiding travel only in certain areas of the Serbian Eastern Republika Srpska. See www.voyage.gc.ca., The British government's Web site at www.fco.gov.uk (go to Travel Advice) links to travel advisories published by seven foreign governments.

Guided hikes/sightseeing

Green Visions offers day hikes, treks and overnights in mine-free areas around Bosnia. Day hikes last 4-6 hours and include lunch and transportation. Cost is $45 per person. See www.greenvisions.ba or call 011-387-33-717-290.

Fikret Kahrovic offers guided city walking tours. Cost for a 3-5 hour city walk is $60 (one to three people). E-mail fikret6@hotmail.com, or call 011-387-33-61-69-28.

More information

The Bradt guide to Bosnia and Herzegovina by Tim Clancy has just been published ($21.95, Globe Pequot Press). Lonely Planet and Let's Go guides to Eastern Europe include chapters on Bosnia.

Information on the Web is at www.sarajevo-tourism.com/eng and www.inyourpocket.com. See thorntree.lonelyplanet.com and www.virtualtourist.com for travelers' comments and discussion.

— Carol Pucci