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Yukon River. The Top of the World Highway only is open during the summer, its opening depending largely on the condition of the Yukon River. The last 100 yards of the "road" is actually a 24-hour government car ferry across the Yukon, delivering travelers to Dawson City's doorstep. The ferry can't operate until winter ice no longer lumbers down the river, so the road stays closed until then.

Peel River and Mackenzie Rivers. The Dempster Highway also opens or closes according to the condition of the ice, since it crosses two rivers in its northernmost 122 miles. Both ferries operate 9 a.m. to 1 a.m., from early June to mid-October. Unlike the Top of the World, the Dempster reopens in the winter. Once the river freezes, an "ice highway" stretches all the way to the Arctic Ocean and to small villages to the east and west that are generally inaccessible in the summer. The ice highway closes once the tundra begins to soften and the ice begins to break up, usually in late April or early May. All ferries are free.

Rental cars

Many major rental-car companies are leery of the Top of the World and Dempster highways. If you rent a car in Anchorage, companies such as Budget and Hertz make you sign a form that prohibits travel on nonpaved roads (eliminating more than half the roads in Alaska). Avis is better, simply letting you know you'll be responsible for all damage. If you rent in the Lower 48 or in Canada, you won't likely see similar restrictions. Budget has a rental office in Dawson City where it all but expects that renters will be traveling either or both roads, so there are no specific prohibitions. Affordable New Car Rental, of Anchorage, (www.ancr.com) advertises reasonable rates and has a policy similar to Avis.

Driving tips

Surviving the Top of the World Highway: The most obvious advice: Drive slowly. Tow-truck drivers say most people get into trouble when they lose control going around corners or pulling over as another car passes. Between Chicken and the U.S./Yukon border, the road shoulders are soft gravel, a sure trap for wider vehicles. There are few guardrails or signs. If you must drive a giant RV, consider unhooking the car or SUV you're dragging behind it and driving that vehicle separately.

Safety on the Dempster Highway: At a minimum, you should have one good spare tire, a tire jack, water, insect repellent, a first-aid kit and flares. You should strongly consider bringing extra food and a sleeping bag. In the winter, add survival gear, including sand, shovel, blankets, candles, flashlights, flares, matches, extra clothing and gloves.

Seeing wildlife

Experienced travelers know that the best times to see "charismatic megafauna" (bears, moose, eagles, etc.) is just after sunset and just before sunrise. Near the Arctic Circle, it never gets very dark in mid-summer, so the strategy is slightly different. Big birds and mammals are less likely to be visible in the several hours before and after noon. Therefore, you might want to consider an itinerary that lets you enter the road around 5 a.m. or one that gets you into Eagle Plains (or Inuvik) later at night. Figure an average speed of no more than 40 mph, with additional time for sightseeing and rest. Also, remember the hours of operation for the river ferries. And if you really care about seeing critters, bring binoculars and a long lens for your camera.

More information

www.travelalaska.com: General tourism information on Alaska. Or phone 907-929-2200. www.northtoalaska.com: Umbrella site for travel to Alaska and Western Canada www.touryukon.com: Yukon Tourism www.nwttravel.nt.ca: Northwest Territories Arctic Tourism www.dawsoncity.com: Klondike Visitors Association www.bellsalaska.com: Taylor Highway Travelogue

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