Originally published June 20, 2007 at 12:00 AM | Page modified June 20, 2007 at 2:00 AM
From Mountains to sea, a lot in between
In square miles, Snohomish County is larger than Delaware or Rhode Island. In population, the county is larger than North Dakota, Vermont...
In square miles, Snohomish County is larger than Delaware or Rhode Island.
In population, the county is larger than North Dakota, Vermont or Wyoming.
It could be said that the county has it all, as it stretches from Puget Sound on the west to the Cascade Mountains on the east. How many places are there where you can go snow skiing and water skiing the same day, if you want?
Or hike along a mountain trail in the morning and enjoy the sunset with a walk along a saltwater beach?
There are a number of positive things that can be said about the county, but it has its negatives as well.
Consider that roughly half of the county's 2,100 square miles are national forest. An additional 18 percent is considered private forest, still another 18 percent is considered rural, and 5 percent is farmland.
That means most of the county's 656,000 people live on about 9 percent of its land.
And you wondered why traffic is so bad at times?
Here are some snapshots of the county:
The geography
The county is bordered by Skagit County to the north, King County to the south, Puget Sound on the west and Chelan County on the east side of the Cascades.
From Interstate 5, the county may seem like an endless suburban sprawl, but its topography is dominated by the dense forests and mountainous terrain of the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest, which attracts nature lovers from all over. There are also two major river systems that empty into Puget Sound, those of the Stillaguamish River in the north part of the county and the Snohomish River in the south.
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To the east, densely wooded hills rise in elevation to alpine wilderness in the Cascades and the county's highest point of elevation, Glacier Peak, which tops out at 10,541 feet and is one of Washington state's tallest mountains.
The Tulalip Tribes Reservation contains some 22,000 acres of federally reserved land west of Marysville and is home to the Tulalip Casino and a growing retail complex.
Western Snohomish County harbors a temperate climate year-round, with an average precipitation of about 35 inches and an average high temperature in the mid-70s in midsummer and average lows just above freezing in January, according to county statistics.
The people
As home to about 656,000 people, Snohomish County is the third most populous county in the state, according to 2005 U.S. census data. It's also one of the fastest-growing counties in the state, as evidenced by an almost 30 percent population jump since 1990. And the forecast is for the growth to continue.
National Census Bureau numbers-crunchers recently said it was the 15th-largest county in the country.
Everett, the county seat, celebrated a milestone in its growth in 2006 when it surpassed 100,000 in population, according to the state Office of Financial Management.
According to the 2005 American Community Survey by the U.S. Census Bureau, median household income in the county was about $55,000, almost 15 percent higher than the national median.
Gender distribution was an even 50-50 between male and female residents, and about 75 percent of residents are 18 or older, with about 7 percent of those at least 65 years of age.
The ethnic makeup of the county is about 80.6 percent white, 7.2 percent Asian American, 5.9 percent Latino, 2.1 percent African American, 1.5 percent Native American and 3.0 percent others, according to the U.S. census. Latinos are among the fastest-growing segments.
Snohomish County has a strong military presence, with some 6,000 military personnel employed at Naval Station Everett, which was built in 1994 and is home to the aircraft carrier USS Abraham Lincoln and other ships.
About 2,450 Native Americans live on the Tulalip Tribes Reservation and in the Marysville area. The Tulalip Reservation predates the county; it was formed as a result of the 1855 Point Elliott Treaty, which was drawn up six years before Snohomish County was created. Washington Territorial Gov. Isaac Stevens met with 81 tribal leaders at Point Elliott, now Mukilteo, to devise the treaty with the U.S. government. It was ratified by President Buchanan in 1859.
The history
In the beginning, there was timber. Lots of it. So many trees no one thought the county would ever run out. Timber produced an explosion of mills on the Everett waterfront.
Much of Snohomish County's history gravitates toward Everett, historically known as "the city of smokestacks, where rail meets sail."
Before Everett came alive in what historian Dave Dilgard described as "a jubilation in the streets" with the advent of rail transportation in the 1880s, there was unbridled free enterprise and a long line of notorious businessmen who made use of what they thought was a never-ending supply of resources.
Snohomish County industry was built upon fishing, timber and mining. Images of lawless ruffians and men behind powerful fortunes swinging the chains of their pocket watches are not far from the truth, Dilgard said, but riches came and went as markets followed a roller coaster of booms and busts.
Some of the more influential moguls in Snohomish County history include Andrew Pope and William Talbot, who established the Puget Mill Co. in 1853.
Henry Hewitt Jr., another lumber baron, foresaw the development of the Great Northern Railway that would run through the city. In the early 1890s, Hewitt acquired a fortune from East Coast investors who included John D. Rockefeller before a national depression hit in the mid-1890s.
Perhaps the most memorable and certainly violent event in Snohomish County history, the Everett Massacre, occurred in 1916 during a time of labor hostilities.
Five members of the Industrial Workers of the World and two sheriff's deputies were killed during a demonstration at the Everett docks. Some 30 other people were injured.
The county takes its name from what long ago was the predominant Snohomish tribe. The meaning of the name is debated among language scholars, but according to definitions from the Tulalip Tribes Cultural Resources Department, Snohomish is derived from the root word "sduhub" in the Lushootseed Native tongue. The purest translation is, simply, "man."
Many names throughout the region end in suffixes — -amish or -omish, which mean "people."
Dilgard, who's a history specialist at the Everett Library, said the "man of the people" translation could be a descriptive way of suggesting a superiority of the people, like "brave," or it could mean only that settlers had asked tribal people what they called themselves and the answer had been "us" — and it stuck.
The first mining claim in the Monte Cristo area was filed in 1889, the same year Washington became a state, after a miner discovered a vein of gold and silver.
By the early 1900s, though, Monte Cristo was already on its way to becoming a ghost town. There was gold and silver, but not enough to sustain an expensive, large-scale mining operation. Even today, weekend prospectors find silver and gold in the area.
Getting around
It's not always easy.
Put 90 percent of the county's people on 9 percent of its land, combine that with a network of main roads that were adequate 40 years ago and a work force that primarily travels to Everett, Seattle or the high-tech corridor stretching from Bothell to Redmond and Bellevue, and traffic can often be slow. Agonizingly slow.
The county has four primary north-south routes: Interstate 5, Highway 99 (which was the main north-south route through the county before I-5 was built), Highway 9 and Highway 522. Going east-west, the only main road is Highway 2, which is one of the state's deadlier highways, with 40 traffic deaths in the past seven years.
Improvements are on the way, but it will be a while before they're usable. I-5 through Everett is being widened, and parts of Highways 9 and 522 will also be expanded.
Transit, including commuter trains, relieves a little of the pressure.
The future
Snohomish County's economy is highlighted by aerospace technology, particularly Boeing's Everett plant, which employs more than 23,000 people. Naval Station Everett is the second-largest single employer, with more than 6,000 workers, most of them military personnel. Other growth is in the biotechnology, electronics/computer and wood-product industries.
Employment in the county is steady, with the state Employment Security Department reporting an estimated 5 percent unemployment rate in its most recent 2007 statistics.
A county profile by The League of Snohomish County Heritage Organizations listed Snohomish County as one of the prime targets for relocation across the United States. County officials predict a population spike of about 50 percent by 2025, to just under 1 million residents.
As of February, the median price of a single-family home or condo in Snohomish County was $361,378, an increase of almost 11 percent over February 2006.
The average selling price of the 723 residences that closed in February was $394,538. The median selling price for homes and condos rose $41,348 from February 2006.
Copyright © 2007 The Seattle Times Company

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