Wheeler Street Kitchen: a salad-soup-sandwich gem in Magnolia

What's remarkable about Wheeler Street Kitchen is that after five months in business, this Seattle gem still hasn't made the radar of social-networking foodies.

Sure, the entrance is on a plain-looking alley in Magnolia. But the lipstick-red exterior hints at the tender love your taste buds will get here.

Chef/owner Gregory Campbell, former executive chef for 12 years at the now-defunct Third Floor Fish Café in Kirkland, wanted to work closer to his home in Magnolia. When a glassblowing studio became available, Campbell and his wife, Carrie, decided the 1,200-square-foot space could accommodate a limited menu of soups, sandwiches and a few other items available for lunch or early dinner.

"Our focus is on making everything fresh in-house," Gregory Campbell said. "It's real casual American food."

The menu: Think salads, soups and sandwiches. Romaine, arugula and Caesar salads are $6 each. There are five kinds of soups ($4.50-$6.50), including a roasted cremini mushroom with porcini broth. We counted five types of sandwiches ($5.50-$8), among them a roasted pork shoulder with caramelized onions and arugula. And then there are comfort dishes such as macaroni and cheese ($4.50 small, $5.50 large) and a gourmet burger with fries ($9.50). A small glass of wine will set you back $8.

What to write home about: The soups have a hearty consistency. Our butternut-squash soup with curry cream and the chunky clam chowder with applewood-smoked bacon were perfect. The slow-cooked beef brisket ($8) with horseradish and shaved red onions is a gloriously meaty sandwich. Finish up with a creamy chocolate semolina pudding ($3.50).

The setting: The interior has an industrial, plain aesthetic. Seating is limited (up to about 22 people) and service friendly.

Summing up: The Caesar, beef-brisket sandwich, pudding, two soups ($4.50 each/small) and a half of a BLT ($5) came to $40, with tax and tip. Wheeler Street Kitchen offers big value for big taste.

Sanjay Bhatt: 206-464-3103 or sbhatt@seattletimes.com