At Po Dogs, an inventive makeover for the humble frankfurter

There is some debate as to where the modern hot dog was invented. Some say Chicago, some say St. Louis. But there is no debate that Po Dogs on Capitol Hill re-invented it.

Laura Olson needed a change from her desk job and, in November, decided to open a gourmet hot-dog shop. She didn't want to serve a hot dog that the average person could make, so she experimented and came up with some nontraditional toppings.

How about a Wasabi Egg-Roll Dog — a hot dog wrapped in wonton, deep-fried and served with wasabi aioli? Or the Morning Glory Dog, with scrambled eggs, bacon and cheese?

"Everything that I love, I put a hot dog in it," Olson said.

The menu: Sure there are the specialty dogs with crazy toppings, but you can also get a plain hot dog or make your own. There are more than 20 toppings to pick from. Choices for wieners include an all-beef kosher dog, apple-sage vegetarian dog, chicken-apple sausage, polish kielbasa and German bratwurst.

What to write home about: The Chicago Dog (dill pickle, sweet relish, tomato, onion, sport pepper, mustard and celery salt) and the Deep Fried Danger Dog (wrapped in bacon and deep fried, topped with onions and a spicy chili sauce).

The one item that takes the most getting used to is the PB Dog, a hot dog covered with peanut butter and bananas. Before your face starts to cringe, give it a try.

"I was looking for a dessert dog," Olson said. "Chocolate is not a great topping for a hot dog. So I took a combination of what I like to eat — peanut butter and bananas. At first it's kind of a shock. After a while you gain a respect for it."

The setting: As you enter the long, thin restaurant, a floor-to-ceiling photo of a pug licking its lips greets you from a back wall. There is a bar, the length of the restaurant, and booth seating in the back.

Summing up: Our order of six hot dogs (ranging from $5.75 to $6.85), shoestring fries ($2.50) and deep-fried pickles ($3.50) fed eight people for $47.19, plus tip.

Jon Fisch: 206-464-8326 or jfisch@seattletimes.com