Stirring up fun with fondue in Seattle

Remember the fondue-mad '70s? That's when my siblings and I spent time around our kitchen table (and Mom's fondue set), slender forks in hand, dipping bread in molten cheese or searing bits of meat in hot oil — even more fun than baking brownies in our Easy Bake Oven!

I flashed on that memory this month when I introduced a trio of 'tweens to the joys of the "fondue party" as practiced at the Melting Pot. But that national chain isn't alone in putting the "fun" in fondue, as noted below.

So, tell me: where do you fondue?

Artisanal Brasserie

11111 N.E. Eighth St., Bellevue (at The Bravern), 425-372-2200; www.artisanalwa.com

Hours: Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays; dinner, 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, 5-9 p.m. Sundays and Mondays; brunch, 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays; happy hour, 3-6 p.m. daily.

Cheese is the raison d'être at this sprawling brasserie where dedicated fromagers curate a vast selection of God's beloved milk product. Fondue — in a traditional enameled cast-iron caquelon — gets its dippity due in sizes petite (feeds 2-3) or grande (enough for 4-6). Choose from blends including the popular Artisanal classic (Emmental, Gruyère, Comtè) and fondue du jour (I sampled a molten meld of 30 cheeses — but who's counting?). A basket of cubed bread is complimentary, while sides like apples, fingerling potatoes and tender sautéed beef tips cost extra. And bien sûr! There's chocolate fondue for dessert with cookies, fruit and marshmallows for dunking.

The Melting Pot

Seattle: 14 Mercer St., 206-378-1208; Bellevue: 302 108th Ave. N.E., 425-646-2744; www.themeltingpot.com

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-10:30 p.m. Fridays, 4-10:30 p.m. Saturdays, 4-10 p.m. Sundays.

A young couple snug in a nearby booth cooed over their white-chocolate fondue here on Lower Queen Anne, while my trio of sixth-graders made out pretty well themselves. Who cares if the dim, dual-level restaurant looks like a fern bar set in amber: fondue pots rest on heated cooktops, service is friendly and the kids had a blast dipping color-coded skewers into a succession of red-hot fondue pots. They partied on with a mustardy mix of Gruyère, raclette and fontina. Next, two shareable entree combos starring cook-it-yourself variations on the meat/poultry/seafood theme — including but not limited to (raw) teriyaki sirloin, salmon and duck breast. We took our server's advice, opting for a (vapid) court bouillon rather than canola oil as our cooking medium, and finished with milk-chocolate fondue served with a powdered-sugar-coated fiesta of fruit and sweets.

Olives Cafe & Wine Bar

107 Fifth Ave. N., Edmonds, 425-771-5757; www.olivescafewinebar.com

Hours: (fondue available at dinner only) 4-9 p.m. Tuesdays-Wednesdays, 4-10 p.m. Thursdays-Saturdays.

If you're one of those people who hang around the crab and artichoke dip at every potluck, have I got a fondue for you! Here at my neighborhood bistro and bar, just steps from the fountain in downtown Edmonds, fresh Dungeness crab and diced artichokes get the "fondue" treatment when baked in a crock. Spoon through the crunchy herbed-panko crust to find a bubbling mix of garlic-infused cream, Gruyère and Parmesan, then layer the buried treasure over a crouton and be sure to treat yourself to one of the many wine flights available.

Pair

5501 30th Ave. N.E., Seattle, 206-526-7655; www.pairseattle.com

Hours: 5-10 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays.

Despite what some may think, you don't need a posse to enjoy fondue. At Pair in Ravenna, I dined solo, a glass of wine my sole companion as I dipped slices of pear, apple and toast into Cambozola fondue ($9.50). That creamy, blue-veined German cheese is turned into a silky soup, kept warm by a tea light. And though it's a rich reward, I still made room for a classic salade frisée garnished with fried egg and lardons, and treated myself to a memorable mug full of coffee-chocolate pot de crème.

Palace Kitchen

2030 Fifth Ave., Seattle, 206-448-2001; www.tomdouglas.com

Hours: 5 p.m.-1 a.m. daily (bar opens at 4:30 p.m. weekdays).

I never need an excuse to eat half a loaf of bread from Dahlia Bakery, but the Palace Kitchen provides one anyway. Lightly grilled bites of that rustic loaf are heaped around a heated tower of goat-cheese fondue, perfumed oh-so-lightly with lavender. There's good reason this menu standard remains a standout on the oft-changing menu: It's fabulously frothy, lighter than it looks and delicious drizzled over the slices of tart apple provided. For dessert? More cheese! — culled from a list of the Northwest's finest.

Nancy Leson: 206-464-8838 or nleson@seattletimes.com.