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Originally published Friday, July 3, 2009 at 12:00 AM

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Dining Deals

GreenGo Food: "fast food with a conscience" in Ballard

GreenGo Food, which opened in February in a tiny building in Ballard, combines two trends: farmers-market purveyors establishing restaurants and the use of locally sourced ingredients.

Seattle Times staff reporter

GreenGo Food

American

5402 20th Ave. N.W., Seattle

206-783-1402

www.greengofood.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays, closed Sundays and Mondays.

Etc: Major credit cards accepted; street parking; no obstacles to access, though the restaurant is tiny; beer served.

Prices: $-$$

GreenGo Food, which opened in February in a tiny building in Ballard, combines two trends: farmers-market purveyors establishing restaurants and the use of locally sourced ingredients.

Wife-and-husband team Heidi and Dylan Stockman — who regularly work the Lake City and Broadway farmers markets — offer "fast food with a conscience," with a menu emphasizing mostly local, organic food.

The menu: The options fall into two main categories: burgers ($6.50-$12, made from certified organic beef from Skagit River Ranch) and vegetarian options (such as polenta plates, a grilled cheese or bean burger, ranging from $4-$8). Some of the vegetarian plates can be made vegan. Egg sandwiches ($5-$6.50) and sides (including bacon at $1 a slice, or salads and potatoes for about $3) also are available. The price is reduced by 50 cents if you bring your own container. The menu changes depending on seasonal availability.

What to write home about: The Seasonal Burger ($9.50 with choice of a side dish) was a satisfying quarter-pound patty with cheese, seasonal relish and pickles. The texture of the patty was more like meatloaf. Dylan Stockman attributes that to using a KitchenAid mixer, which, he says, breaks the meat down more than mixing by hand. It doesn't have the mouthfeel one expects a burger to have, but it's gratifying in its own way. The seasonal relish on the burger — in this case, rhubarb with bacon — provided a nicely tart counterpoint to the beef, though the flavor could have been taken up a notch.

Less interesting but still fine was the Ultimate Polenta Meal ($8), though the polenta cake and black-bean cake both could've used more robust seasoning. The vegetables that came with it were oversalted.

The setting: Inside seating is a small counter with several stools placed very close together, and a small kids table in the corner. Outside, there's a bench with two tables in front, and a small patio with a few more tables and chairs in back.

Summing up: Two of us shared two entrees, a salad and two iced teas (refreshing and not too sweet) for $29.11, not including tip. It's a nice place to stop in for a quick, easy-on-your-conscience meal, especially during these summer days when you can sit outside, or take your to-go order to a nearby park.

Janet I. Tu: 206-464-2272 or jtu@seattletimes.com

Copyright © 2009 The Seattle Times Company

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This Wednesdays NY Times had an article about how high end chefs make hamburgers and every one in the article states that minimum handling is a key...  Posted on July 3, 2009 at 7:22 AM by bigg mouth. Jump to comment
I have two questions after reading this article: 1. How are hamburgers priced at $6.50-$12 a "Dining Deal"? I can get a decent burger...  Posted on July 5, 2009 at 10:04 PM by Mr. Joe. Jump to comment
slapping the word "Green" on an enterprise does not make it so. Beef and dairy products are the least "Green" of all the foods...  Posted on July 5, 2009 at 11:11 AM by arbor-guy. Jump to comment

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