The Elliott Bay Café is worth the trip downstairs

Going to a subterranean spot for a summer lunch means ignoring sunny decks. But it doesn't seem like a sacrifice when the place under consideration is downstairs from the charming nooks and crannies of the Elliott Bay Book Co. in Pioneer Square — a spot that recently went through an airy renovation and intrigues diners with a menu crafted by revered local chef Tamara Murphy of Brasa.

The Elliott Bay Café reopened under Murphy's oversight late last year with a light and lovely interior. The curved brick ceilings in the back make it an ideal area to hide with a book, coffee and smoked trout and eggs during dreary January, but it is cheery enough — and its offerings diverting enough — to justify a summer jaunt.

The menu: Murphy has assembled an intriguing menu, which includes a chorizo burger ($9.25) and a grilled cheese made of goat's cheese, fontina, Mama Lil's peppers and tomato jam ($4.95/$7.50).

Salads feature the Almost Raw ($6.25/$8.95), hearty with the grain farro and kale, and a St. Jude's albacore tuna Niçoise ($9.75). I'm desperate to try breakfast (served all day!), particularly the aforementioned smoked trout and eggs scrambled with scallions and bacon ($8.50).

The cafe also offers daily specials such as a pulled-pork sandwich or tomato-tarragon soup, a pastry case with handmade pies and a cheese plate for $8.50.

What to write home about: Highlights include a lemon-grass chicken sandwich ($8.95) with a soft baguette cradling tender meat bright with lemon grass and the contrasting crunch of ginger cabbage slaw. The Moroccan steak sandwich ($9.75) was delicious, with pillowy warm pita enveloping marinated seared skirt steak, minted yogurt and feta cheese, though a side Waldorf salad was heavy on the mayonnaise.

The setting: Head down the stairs outside the bookstore and line up at the pastry case to order. Diners can take their pick of small tables or larger shared ones.

Summing up: Murphy has made food the real draw. Prices are reasonable but can add up quickly for people with hearty appetites. Two sandwiches, a cup of soup, one side salad and drinks came out to $35 before tip. Still, I'd take any excuse to get back there and settle in for more gourmet eats.

Nicole Tsong: 206-464-2150 or ntsong@seattletimes.com