Kristos Eastlake: It's Greek, sleek, with deals worth a peek

Kristos Eastlake is an unmistakably Greek joint, from its cobalt-blue-swathed walls to its feta-and-olive-studded dishes to its affable vibe.

But Kristos also seems to have an identity dilemma. The restaurant's minimalist interior says less taverna than Belltown. And on its short menu, gyro, souvlaki and keftedes mingle with New York steak with chimichurri sauce and roast-beef sandwich au jus.

Yet superb happy-hour deals and tasty, if not dazzling, food make this new spot a worthwhile destination.

Late-night noshers from Eastlake and University District, in particular, won't do much better than Kristos' mix of sleek atmosphere and bargains.

The menu: The casual fare is Greek with a decidedly American accent. The four mezze, or small plate, choices include sautéed calamari ($9) as well as lamb or chicken skewers ($8). Five types of sandwiches ($10-$13) are served with thick fries or salad. The steak, which comes with roast potatoes and glazed carrots, is the priciest entree at $18. Pizza will join the menu soon.

What to write home about: Our Kristos Burger was a hefty affair, with chargrilled beef, bacon, sharp cheddar cheese and harissa aioli held down by a sesame bun. The house-cut fries were equally delectable, though not quite crisp. Best of all, it costs $6 during happy hour (everything on the food menu is half price from 4 to 6:30 p.m. and 10 p.m. to closing; $5 wines and $3 drafts are available only during the earlier happy hour).

We also liked the keftedes, deep-fried beef-and-lamb meatballs atop marinara sauce with a hint of heat.

What to skip: The calamari came with bountiful chickpeas, but not so much squid. And it was unexpectedly bland despite the appetizing tint from salsa verde. The Greek lasagna ($13) would have benefitted from more liberal infusion of béchamel sauce.

The setting: Our server, Kristos general manager Nichole Kyrkos, whose Greek-Cypriot father owns the business, exuded informal hospitality that warmed up the restaurant's dark-blue walls and black tabletops.

Summing up: Three of us shared two entrees and three mezze during happy hour, more than we could finish. With two glasses of zinfandel, we dined very well for $36, before tax and tip.

Kyung Song: 206-464-2423 or ksong@seattletimes.com