Indian restaurant with nontraditional twist

Indian restaurants have a loyal following in the Seattle area, but few have paid attention to the cuisine of India's southwest coast, also known as the Malabar Coast.

While some local foodies yearning for dosas and idlis look to the Bay Area, New York or even India, there's a more convenient option in Seattle: Malabar South Indian Flavours, a small restaurant on Northeast 42nd Street in the University District that opened more than a year ago.

The owner, Wasif Qadri, has upset some traditionalists by selling dosas stuffed with beef, chicken, lamb and fish. In India, dosas are almost always served plain or stuffed with seasoned potatoes and onions (masala dosa).

To this South Indian-born writer, the food at Malabar isn't authentic, even though Qadri says that's his aim. It's fusion cuisine that appeals to American palates and helps the restaurant hold its own on this competitive street next to the University of Washington. One masala dosa, please!

The menu: The dosa menu offers the cheapest options, such as $5 for a huge plain dosa, $8.25 for a beef dosa and $8.65 for a shrimp dosa. There's also a tandoori chicken sandwich ($7.15) and several curries served with basmati rice. We tasted South Indian flavors in the Goan-style curry ($12.60 with salmon), Madras sambal ($12.10 with lamb) and chicken thali ($9.85), a combination platter that comes with naan. North Indian favorites include stuffed spinach naan ($4.25) and vegetable samosas ($6.50). The mango lassi ($4.75) is enough for two.

Note: Malabar has had a checkered history with the Health Department but says it is in compliance now.

What to write home about: We loved the Madras sambal with lamb — tender chunks of meat served in a thick, roasted-red-chili tomato sauce spiced with tamarind, garlic, turmeric and fenugreek. The menu says the dish has potatoes, onions and green beans, but these were scant. We also liked the Goan-style fish curry, which is a nod to the Malabar Coast's penchant for adding coconut to every dish.

The setting: The space isn't suited for large groups. The walls are decorated with exotic designs in carved wood.

Summing up: The four of us feasted on spinach naan, masala dosa, Goan fish curry, Madras sambal and chicken thali. Portions are generous enough that we could have dropped the spinach naan. If you stick to water and the other four dishes, the bill, including tax and tip, works out to about $12 each.

Sanjay Bhatt: 206-464-3103

or sbhatt@seattletimes.com