Zippy's is a classic burger joint

Seattle already is home to more than enough teriyaki restaurants. Thankfully, Blaine and Rahel Cook recognized this, as well as the fertile possibilities of that great American staple, the hamburger.

Their restaurant, Zippy's Giant Burgers, located in the Highland Park neighborhood of West Seattle in a spot that used to be a teriyaki restaurant, serves up juicy burgers on buns that are as soft as pillows. The French fries actually taste like potatoes; shakes come with hand-scooped ice cream; and burgers are made from house-ground beef, hand-formed into patties and served in wax-paper pockets.

There's plenty of horsepower in each burger, and none cost more than the Big Mouth ($7.75), which comes with three patties and a disclaimer to be prepared for a stomachache or a doggie bag.

There's even a homemade black-bean burger, which I've heard is pretty good but I wouldn't know. I'm willing to do a lot of things, but not to order a vegetarian alternative at a temple of beef as honorable as Zippy's.

The menu: Burgers. The primary question is: one, two or three patties? There's also a chicken and a vegetarian burger.

What to write home about: The No. 11. It's highlighted by Mama Lil's goathorn peppers, which provide a little heat and a lot of spice. Add chipotle mayo and a combination of jack and smoked cheese, and you've got a formidable burger with a good kick.

What to skip: The onion rings, which are battered too thickly.

The setting: It's small, with two tables, and counters along the walls. Vintage items, including a Wendy's "Where's the Beef?" hat and McDonald's place mats, hang from the walls. My favorite touch: the wall that's painted like the top of a sesame-seed bun.

Summing up: Our order of two burgers, fries, onion rings, chocolate shake and chocolate malt came to $20.95. Yes, this is one rockin' burger joint owned by a rock star. Really. Blaine Cook is the former lead singer of the punk band the Accused and currently fronts Toe Tag.

Danny O'Neil: 206-464-2364 or doneil@seattletimes.com