Great Thai without the splurge at Sai Mai in Bothell

Amid the culinary barrenland that is downtown Bothell, Sai Mai beckons diners with serene sophistication and fresh flavors that will reawaken the palates of even jaded Thai-food aficionados.

Sai Mai serves contemporary Thai cuisine, which translates to elegant dishes with clear tastes and restrained portions. Perhaps a bit too restrained. Our party of three adults with admittedly hearty appetites and my daughter polished off every delectable morsel, with nary a leftover.

But well-executed dishes and superb surroundings make Sai Mai the spot for those seeking reasonably priced Thai dining that feels like a splurge.

The menu: Sai Mai serves an extensive, but not exhaustive, list of Thai dishes. The usual phad Thai, tom yum noodle soup and assorted curries are here. The dinner menu features such "signature" specialties as halibut en papillote, fried tilapia salad and lamb mussamun curry. Entrees top out at $18.95; most are in the $7.95 to $11.95 range.

What to write home about: The green-beans tempura ($4.95) was so good I had to tell my 4-year-old to quit hogging the vegetables. The tangy papaya salad was equally tasty, chilled just right and tossed with green beans, tomatoes and flecks of peanuts. Our table made quick stabs for the garlic prawns ($9.95 at lunch; $11.95 at dinner), which were accompanied by crisp broccoli florets and sliced carrots. The half-dozen prawns were delectable, but disappeared too quickly.

What to skip: Phad kee mao with tofu featured wide noodles stir fried with holy basil, egg, carrots and onions. The dish was toothsome, but its one-dimensional flavor made it a better accompaniment than a stand-alone entree.

The setting: Gorgeous. The room feels spacious yet intimate, thanks to warm pumpkin and orange-red walls and silk-pendant lighting. Our server was gracious and attentive.

Summing up: Three lunch entrees, two appetizers, an order of brown rice and tea totaled $40.75 before tax. The $9.95 lunch specials give you a choice from two appetizers and four entrees, plus a beverage.

Kyung Song: 206-464-2423 or ksong@seattletimes.com