Maki & Yaki: Satisfying teriyaki-joint staples, and then some

Sitting pretty on a prominent corner in the new Rainier Vista housing development, Maki & Yaki is poised to capitalize on the revitalization of the MLK corridor. The restaurant is steps away from the Columbia City light-rail stop and across the street from a shiny new Boys & Girls Club (opening in November).

But in addition to location, location, location, Maki & Yaki has food, food, food working in its favor.

The menu: Japanese standards such as teriyaki, katsu, udon, tempura and more are served in myriad combinations with mounds of sticky rice. Pretty bento boxes and a long list of sushi rolls raise the fare above that of the typical teriyaki joint.

What to write home about: Big cups of steaming miso soup ($1.50) are so smooth they're practically creamy. The shrimp tempura is light and crisp ($3.99 for three pieces); beef short ribs tender and succulent ($9.59 with rice and salad). And the night my family went, the fried gyoza ($2.99 for five) were so popular with the kids, we ordered them again. And again.

What to skip: The iceberg-lettuce salad that comes with most dinners and combos is swimming in a too-sweet dressing. A little rice vinegar would suffice.

The setting: The room is spacious and bright, with huge windows looking out on the new light rail. Bold orange walls and big, solidly built wooden tables invite you in — as does the cheerful service.

Summing up: My family shared three dinners, two cups of miso soup, a California roll and three orders of gyoza — all for $47.94 (not including tax). Our advice? Don't wait for the trains to start running to visit Maki & Yaki.

Lynn Jacobson: 206-464-2714

or ljacobson@seattletimes.com.