Filling, well-filled sandwiches at Yeh Yeh's

Four people stood in line at 2:45 on a Tuesday afternoon. For sandwiches.

These being Yeh Yeh's Vietnamese Sandwiches in Lynnwood, the only surprise is that people are hungry enough to eat such a mouthful in the middle of the day, at what some might consider snack time. There are only a few bahn mi sandwiches on the menu, but they're big, tasty and messy: a meal by themselves, each under $5.

Chris Lee, who opened the deli in April with his brother Dennis, named it in honor of their grandfather, Diem Lee. "Yeh Yeh" is the Chinese word for grandfather, and the brothers — half-Chinese, half-Vietnamese — recall fondly their grandpa's cooking. Chad Lee, son of Diem and father to Chris and Dennis, is the main cook at Yeh Yeh's. The grilled salmon and barbecue pork sandwiches are his own special touches.

The menu: Along with sandwiches, there's pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) and appetizers such as spring rolls and chicken wings. Sandwiches are assembled on 8-inch-long demi-baguettes, filled with pickled vegetables (jalapeños optional) and a mayonnaise that, depending on the chosen protein, can generate a delicious drippiness (Like messy? Get the tofu). Sandwich specials add an egg roll and a soda for an extra $1.25. Try one of the flavored waters in the fridge ($1), or a sweet Vietnamese coffee, hot or iced ($2.25-$2.50).

What to write home about: The sandwiches. I had the tofu; my lunch buddy, the ham. My tofu was grilled, with a savory glaze. I had to get up for extra napkins twice. The ham sandwich also earned a rave, largely for the ingredients that all Yeh Yeh's sandwiches share: the crunchy-on-the-outside-but-not-the-inside bread and the vegetables that lend a texture and flavor not found at your usual sub shop down the street. We shared a made-to-order tofu spring roll appetizer (two rolls for $3) with a homemade peanut sauce that could have been thicker but was worth dipping into just the same.

The setting: Most people order, wait about five or 10 minutes for their food and take off. It's a deli — not a fancy, sit-down restaurant — with white, unadorned walls and patio furniture.

Summing up: Total for my lunch for two: $12.75. But I, too, probably will get my food to go next time. I'll just order my sandwich and spring rolls earlier in the day so that I still have room for dinner.