Phayathai is a hidden treasure

In a space set back from busy Lake City Way, Phayathai Cuisine doesn't have the built-in advantage of — you guessed it — location. But inside, with warm glowing lamps, the soothing sound of moving water and touches like an elegant Asian gate, the Thai restaurant unveils a panache that transcends its exterior. And with food that reaches beyond the humdrum Thai basics offered everywhere, it makes me wish Phayathai would leave its rather dismal site and move to my neighborhood.

The menu: Phayathai (pronounced Pie-ya-tie) makes picking food such as chili prawns and steamed salmon cute. Little cartoon icons indicating coconuts, chicken and limes replace words. You might have to squint to make out the tiny tiger head with the Crying Tiger salad ($11.95), which is packed with grilled steak, lime juice, scallions, tomatoes, cucumbers and mint leaves. A picture of a rooster comes with the grilled chicken yang ($8.25) — meat marinated with honey, palm sugar, lemon grass and Thai herbs.

What to write home about: The coconut-milk base in the roasted duck curry ($11.45), combined with the sweetness of pineapple and juicy cherry tomatoes, provides a complex, rich complement to the slightly fatty duck. The noodle salad Yum Woon Sen ($8.95) might be extra spicy, but it is still delicious, melding vermicelli noodles and crunchy cashews with tender shrimp and ground chicken. Cilantro, lime juice and cherry tomatoes give it a fresh finish.

The setting: Sophisticated, elegant décor with water features, abundant greenery and warm service heightens the experience of Phayathai.

Summing up: The total for two with an appetizer, two entrees and Thai iced tea came to $39.50 plus tip. It's a little pricey, but not beyond reason. Maple Leaf residents, call me jealous.

Nicole Tsong: ntsong@seattletimes.com