Food and atmosphere shine on Sunney's side of the street

Restaurants on the Ave often have the reputation — deserved or not — as quick, cheap places to grab a bite, with atmosphere served on the side. But the moment you are lulled into assumptions, a place like Sunney's Cafe & Restaurant makes you snap out of it.

Sunney's sits on the slightly quieter, northern patch of University Way Northeast, where it lures students and locals with uncomplicated, welcoming versions of Korean favorites and a smattering of Japanese choices at affordable prices.

Sit at one of the tables — if you can nab one — in the small sunshine-hued restaurant, or take a seat at the wooden bar, where you can watch the kitchen at work.

Traditional dishes shine, such as the sizzling seafood pancake, loaded with green onions, squid and small mussels, and bubbling seafood tofu soup (see "Check Please" box). Service is prompt, with regular refills of hot tea.

Diners also can choose from Korean standards such as the popular rice dish Bibimbob ($7.65), beef short ribs ($7.99) and the noodle dish Japchee Rice ($6.65). Japanese items include breaded chicken katsu ($6.75) and yakisoba with chicken, beef and prawns ($7.99).

Sunney's occasionally makes some unorthodox additions to dishes, such as ramen and dumplings mixed into a serving of sautéed rice cakes. And our meal started off with just two small dishes (flavored seaweed and spicy kimchi) instead of a full array of banchan.

But the restaurant pulls off affordable prices and doesn't skimp elsewhere.

Gyoza: Deep-fried dumplings come with a gingery pork filling, which proved slightly bland without vegetables mixed in.

Hae Mul Pa Jun: This seafood pancake is served on a sizzling hot platter and masters the ratio of ingredients, with abundant green onions, light batter and a generous dose of seafood including squid, tiny scallops, shrimp and mussels. The texture, a mixture of chewy, crispy and soft, is irresistible. A soy-sauce mixture lets you control the saltiness.

Pork Bulgogi: Pick the pork for a flavorful variation on beef bulgogi. The pork benefits from the soy-sauce-based marinade; tender, vibrant carrots; onion slivers; and green onions. You'll appreciate the spicy kick.

Seafood Tofu Soup: This satisfying tofu soup comes bubbling hot, churning the liquid surrounding silken squares of tofu, a soft egg and a spare amount of squid, mussels and tiny shrimp. The briny seafood and soft egg yolk add richness to the broth, but it could have been a smidgen spicier.

Itemized bill, meal for two

Gyoza $4.85

Hae Mul Pa Jun $9.95

Pork Bulgogi and Seafood Tofu Soup $11.65

Tax $2.38

Total $28.83

Nicole Tsong: ntsong@seattletimes.com