Genuine Japanese — no passport required

Todd Kuniyuki toils for hours every Sunday, when Kaname Izakaya and Shochu Bar is closed, making ramen broth from a Japanese chef's recipe. Top Ramen it is not.

From-scratch stock and fresh noodles are just a starting point for Kuniyuki's dedication to dishing out the genuine, Japanese thing.

The devotion for the Chinatown International District restaurant is exacting enough that saketinis are not on the menu. In Japan, the distilled spirit shochu (similar to vodka) is mixer and emperor.

Kaname's offerings stay within comfortable territory with selections like salmon teriyaki and tonkatsu, but it distinguishes itself with fresh ingredients and clear flavors served in an attractive setting.

The wood-paneled restaurant, designed by Kuniyuki's Japanese brother-in-law, features a beautiful, red sequoia bar ideal for lounging with a glass of shochu mixed with lime and club soda.

The menu is set up to accommodate those looking to relax Japanese-style, with a drink and appetizers that are essentially downsized entrees. Choose from meatier options like Saba Shioyaki, or broiled mackerel ($12.50); chicken teriyaki ($12.25); and tonkatsu, or breaded pork ($12.25). Or take on the crunchy burdock root in Kinpira Gobo($3.50) and edamame ($3.95).

Tempura udon ($8.25) or the much-labored-over ramen ($7.95) would make a wonderful lunch, or ratchet up the meal with beefy and sweet sukiyaki ($12.95). There's a limited selection of sushi, and for the truly undecided — you have my sympathy — there are bento box combinations.

But asking our server for her preference in a mackerel versus oysters faceoff resulted in the best choice of the evening: the Kaki Fry. The plump, panko-crumbed oysters were mesmerizing, served crunchy and hot with a tangy tonkatsu sauce made in-house.

The kitchen was a little out of sync in timing our dishes, but it was relatively easy to forgive while sipping from a steaming bowl of sukiyaki and wondering when I could get back for the ramen.

Check please

Kinpira Gobo: Julienned burdock root sprinkled with sesame seeds snuggles next to carrots in this petite appetizer. The root is both crunchy and slightly tough, a texture that is surprisingly compelling and works well with a salty, soy sauce-based teriyaki sauce.

Kaki Fry: Plump oysters are breaded with panko crumbs and nestled in a bed of lightly-dressed lettuce for a delightfully crisp snack oozing juicy goodness. Dip them in a housemade tonkatsu sauce — a mix of ketchup, red wine, oyster sauce and miso — that provides a tangy contrast.

Salmon Teriyaki: A light, clean-tasting teriyaki sauce is thoughtfully served on the side of the broiled salmon, accompanied with buttered noodles and a salad with soy-ginger dressing. And it was a key accompaniment for salmon that came out slightly dry.

Udon Sukiyaki: Udon noodles and tofu cubes swim in a sweet broth for this soupy Japanese standard. Napa cabbage, onions and a generous heaping of tender, thinly sliced beef make this a complete, though rich, meal.

Nicole Tsong: ntsong@seattletimes.com