Savoring the flavor of France on Capitol Hill

"That place in Paris on the corner that's just for everything" is what Jim Drohman had in mind when he and his business partner, Joanne Herron, conceived of Café Presse, which opened this summer on Capitol Hill.

Paris is full of such simple cafes, where from early morning to after midnight, affordably priced, uncomplicated food can be had. Strong coffee with fresh brioche. A cheese plate with a glass of wine. Pastis with a snack of olives or almonds. Or a whole roasted chicken, served with a heap of fried potatoes.

Parisians frequent these places with regularity, as if they were an extension of their homes, just as Seattleites have been wont to do at Drohman and Herron's other place, Le Pichet, near Pike Place Market; just as they will likely do here as well.

Café Presse and Le Pichet are cousins in their Gallic souls, though they diverge in temperament. Where Le Pichet calls to mind l'ancienne Paris, Café Presse is moderne, a cosmopolitan Euro-cafe-cum-newsstand (and sometime sports bar) that will appeal equally to the young and the young at heart.

Yes, Seattle Magazine is among the eclectic periodicals for sale (Islamica, Wired, Rivet, Le Monde and Le Figaro are some others). But don't expect to catch the Mariners on that flat-screen TV. It's dark unless there is a (tres European) soccer or rugby match being played, then it will be turned on.

There is often a motorbike parked out front and people reading or tapping at laptops inside. When students from nearby Seattle Academy and Seattle U. wander in, it may be for the simply splendid pomme-frites, or the French idea of an after-school snack: a split baguette dripping with warm, bittersweet chocolate.

Baguettes come stuffed with other things too: luxurious house-made chicken liver terrine (Le Pichet's recipe faithfully duplicated); and soft, clove-scented pork rillettes flaunting a layer of savory fat. I had a moment of bliss involving sardines: two chubby grilled fish, headless but whole, skin crackling and brown, barely contained between mayonnaise-moistened bread already crowded with tender lettuce and red onion.

Those gussied up grilled-cheese sandwiches, Monsieur and Madame Croque, are also on the bill of fare, along with their country cousin, Croque Campagnard, an open-faced layering of gruyere over garlicky sausage topped with a tomato slice.

Mornings are quiet, with a limited, pastry-based menu available at 7 a.m. Then beginning at 9 and until the kitchen closes at 1:30 a.m., they will make anything you like from the single-page menu, which spans "le casse croute" (sandwiches and snacks), charcuterie, salads and heartier "plats."

Notable among the latter is tomato soup, a complex red sea in which the taste of anise swirls and two garlic-rubbed croutons spread with goat cheese float. The chicken, roasted to order and split for two, takes an hour. But it's worth the wait, a triumph of moist flesh and brittle skin made succulent with plenty of salt, pepper and butter. I imagine it's just as good served cold, alongside watercress salad, an alternative for those who don't want to wait the hour it takes for the hot dish.

That sprightly cress salad also accompanies steak tartare, two exemplary ovals of raw minced beef skillfully melded with capers, onion, mustard, and Worcestershire sauce. A Madeira sauce that moistens steak-frites accomplishes another delicate balance with butter, herbs and shallots, enhancing both frites and meat, sinewy slices of hangar steak pan-roasted to medium rare.

On the seafood side, lush black cod was the pan-fried fish du jour, an impressively sized fillet for the price ($12) served over a pretty, but under-seasoned, ragout of lentils, spinach and radishes.

As night descends the mood shifts, becoming more high-spirited and harder-edged, along with the soundtrack — vintage American rock or French techno — played loud enough to rise above the conversational din. Candlelight softens the interior, which is both raw and polished, juxtaposing brick and metal with sleek crown molding and elegant silver patterned wallpaper.

One night late having dinner at the bar, we were served in somewhat distracted fashion by a cocky bartender whose talents clearly lie in mixology. In a pause between pulling drafts of Stella Artois and filling the small earthenware pitchers that hold a third (demi-pichet) or two-thirds (pichet) of a bottle of wine, we watched him flambé a spiced date in 160-proof rum for a cocktail of his invention.

Meanwhile, I was enjoying Armagnac — in a lovely ice cream also laced with prunes. Blueberry upside-down cake and bread pudding bursting with cherry, apricot and pistachio were equally agreeable; so was a ravishing cup of rich hot chocolate, served with an equal amount of whipped cream on the side.

During the dinner rush things get a bit chaotic at the door, but the nimble staff eventually sorts things out. They are for the most part an experienced bunch.

If you're with a group or pushing a stroller you'll be more comfortable in the roomier rear dining room, where there's less action, lots of windows and tables can be reserved.

If you're hoping for a tête-à-tête with a friend or lover, hold out for the banquette opposite the bar in the front room, where the tight squeeze will work to your advantage. To see and be seen, grab a bar stool, or sit at the counter along the front window. Order a glass of bubbly Blanquette de Limoux. At $5, it's a cheap ticket to Paris.

Providence Cicero: providencecicero@aol.com

Sample menu

Baguette sandwich

with sardines $5

Rillettes de porc $6

Tomato soup with goat cheese croutons $7

Steak-Frites $16

Roast chicken for two $26