Bakery Nouveau | A world-champion baker right in our own backyard

All I can say is I'm very glad I live far, far away from William Leaman's new candy, pastry and bread emporium. If I had to walk by every day and inhale the smell of freshly baked bread, glimpse those glistening chocolates or stare down those pretty pastel French macaroons and luscious lemon-filled tarts, soon not even the stretchiest jeans would meet around my middle.

Leaman, however, lives just five minutes away from the West Seattle shop he opened in December. And that's a good thing because this world-champion baker and former head pastry chef at Fremont's Essential Bakery is in the kitchen by 4 a.m. every day.

The cafe is a lively place warmed by wood trim the color of chocolate ganache. The staff keeps busy replenishing the confections that fill the display case, upon which resides the towering gold trophy Leaman's Team USA won in Paris in 2005. The half dozen tables along the opposite wall are seldom empty for long.

Folks amble in for ready-made sandwiches ($6-$6.50), quiche or pizza ($3.50), or just for a treat, like a buttery croissant ($2) or a pistachio macaroon ($1.50) so airy and light they disappear in your mouth almost before you can chew. Coffee (from local Lighthouse Roasters) and hot chocolate are the beverages of choice. Don't leave without a loaf of bread for dinner.

The shop's back door leads right to the West Seattle Farmers Market. When it opens for the season next month, Leaman plans weekly forays to load up his red wagon with produce that will expand his menu to include fresh salads, tartines and savory pastries.

Check, please

Spinach-bacon quiche: Fresh spinach is abundant in this loose eggy filling, the bacon less so. A fragile, fluted pie crust tenderly holds it all together.

Muffaletta sandwich: A crusty ciabatta roll, chewy but light, holds thinly sliced ham, turkey and provolone, but it's the generous dollop of garlickly chopped-green-olive spread that gets your attention.

Lemon-raspberry tart: A single fresh raspberry on top signals the raspberry puree lurking in the depths of the lemon-curd filling, a pleasingly sharp contrast to the sweet, crumbly shortbread crust.

Praline Dream: Dreamy is the word for this elegant confection. The faint crunch of feuilletine (crushed sweet wafers) runs through layers of chocolate sponge cake and chocolate mousse topped with soft curls of gianduja (hazelnut-flavored chocolate).

Itemized bill, meal for two

Spinach-bacon quiche$3.50

Muffaletta sandwich $6.50

Lemon-raspberry tart $3.50

Praline Dream $3.50

French press coffee $1.50

Cappuccino$2.25

Tax $1.93

Total$22.68

Providence Cicero: providencecicero@aol.com