Forecast: Suni and bright, and delicious

You half expect a carhop to materialize when you drive up to this low-slung Shoreline eatery. Even inside, it looks like the quintessential 1950s-era burger joint — except for the two TV screens. It's shiny, bright and loud, with a gleaming stainless-steel kitchen and white ceramic tile walls stamped with a blue-and-green boomerang pattern.

But Suni's Gourmet Express isn't your typical fast-food joint.

First of all, there's friendly and fast table service (not to mention a little vase of fresh flowers next to the salt and pepper). Your cute, dark-haired waitress might be the boss' daughter, Nichole. Her dad, Chris Krykos, has owned Suni's for more than 25 years, she says. Before that it was her grandfather's place. The family originated in Cyprus, which explains the handful of Greek items on a menu leaning largely toward burgers, subs and pizzas.

Secondly, Suni's offers "specials." They include a lamb gyro with "Greek fries" ($7.99), a "Big Fat Greek Gyro Salad" ($8.95/large) and a fine, filling baked lasagna ($9.95). "They're really not specials," explains Nichole. "If we try to change them, people complain." They are listed on a separate card, however, so if you don't get handed one — ask!

They make their own pizza dough and sauces here. The plain cheese pie ($9.50/small) sports a rich tomato-and-herb sauce and a thick-and-creamy blanket of mozzarella on its breadlike crust.

Suni's quarter-pound burgers ($4.50-$6.25) are served fresh off the grill on a toasted bun. Chase one with a microbrew or a glass of merlot — yet another nicety that puts Suni's ahead of the fast-food herd.

Check please:

Lamb gyro: Look for it on the special sheet; it's the best gyro of the bunch (chicken and beef are the other choices). The fluffy pita holds slabs of seasoned lamb; cucumber, tomato and red-onion slices; crumbled feta and a mild tzatziki sauce. Includes terrific "Greek fries" topped with mizithra cheese.

Brunch burger: Top a bacon cheeseburger with a fried egg and you get brunch on a bun — a toasted sesame one at that, slathered with mayo and half-wrapped in paper. The quarter-pound patty has a bit of char and discernible beef flavor, the cheese is American, the bacon adds a smoky crunch and the egg is cooked over easy. Topped with lettuce, tomato and onion, too.

Fries: Cooked to a nutty brown, they're floppy but not limp. Mild but tangy tartar sauce is served on the side.

Greek salad: A colorful and crisp mix of romaine and iceberg with chopped red cabbage, green and yellow peppers, cucumber and tomato chunks, kalamata olives and peperoncini. Slivers of ham and salami, crumbled feta and dried oregano are scattered across the top. The dressing — oil, vinegar and lots of oregano — comes in a ramekin on the side.

Chocolate malt: Served the old-fashioned way with the extra on the side, making this thick, creamy delight plenty big enough for two.

Itemized bill, for two

Lamb gyro $7.99

Brunch burger $5.90

Side of fries $1.25

Small Greek salad $6.75

Chocolate malt $3.50

Tax $2.31

Total $27.70

Providence Cicero: providencecicero@aol.com