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Friday, December 8, 2006 - Page updated at 12:45 PM From Homey To HauteSURE, THERE'S the Big Night when you're dressed to kill and looking to paint the town fed. But let's face it: Most of the time you're dressed to spill and hoping to eat it and beat it. For some of us, elegance is bliss. For others, it's about the food, not the mood. Whether we're in search of dazzling dim sum or a hom bao on-the-run, a simple tartine or a sophisticated menu degustation, a casual steak dinner or chateaubriand for two, our options abound. The good news is that for every haute-y hotspot, there's its equally delicious homey equivalent. Taking my appetite for a ride — from Ballard to Bainbridge, Belltown to Bellevue, White Center to Woodinville and scores of places in between — here's what I found to prove it. SEAFOOD Jack's Fish Spot 1514 Pike Place, Seattle; 206-467-0514 What you see is what you get at this fresh fish shop and seafood counter. Stop by for a quick cup of cioppino and stay to chat with chummy staffers who set you up with a half-dozen oysters, steamed mussels and clams, and some of the city's best seafood 'n' chips. Shellfish, salmon, halibut or true cod are fried hot and crisp in a beer-battered jacket and served with fries sliced (whack!) right before your eyes. Note: Jack closes before the dinner hour. The Oceanaire Seafood Room 1700 Seventh Ave., Seattle; 206-267-2277 Slick as tuna in flight and built as Neptune's answer to the classic steakhouse, the Oceanaire puts a world of seafood on the plate, bringing fresh fish in daily from near (Puget Sound octopus, whole Oregon rockfish) and far (Fijian yellowfin tuna, Barents Sea king crab "chops"). Sit at the oyster bar for full frontal effect, or snag a cushy booth and make a luxurious meal of it, taking a lesson in fishified discourse from the uber-educated waitstaff. STEAKHOUSE JaK's Grill 4548 California Ave. S.W., Seattle; 206-937-780914 Front St. N., Issaquah; 425-837-8834 3701 N.E. 45th St., Seattle; 206-985-8545 This steakhouse trio takes no reservations, offers no appetizers and isn't above offering take-out. You won't pay extra for sides, and can grab a burger instead of going gonzo over well-aged steaks, chops and other house "favorites" (salad included). Like the fancy steakhouses, JaK's provides friendly, professional service and bartenders who mix a mean martini. They're also generous with by-the-glass pours, culled from a wide-ranging West Coast-oriented wine list. El Gaucho 2505 First Ave., Seattle; 206-728-1337 Seattle swells, blue-jeaned babes and funsters who like a bit of funk with their swank find reason to revel at this cozy cavern. Captains courageous and their liveried lieutenants converge tableside bearing potent cocktails and prime steaks, setting flame to swords of meat and to cherries jubilee. Repartee is part of the package as they toss Caesar salads and carve chateaubriand. Locals jam the bar, a pianist tickles the ivories, and you pay dearly to join in the fun. FRENCH Saint-Germain 2811 E. Madison St., Seattle; 206-323-9800 Jean-Michel Omnés tends seven tables with proprietary panache at this slip of a café whose petite menu offers soups, salads, sandwiches and the house specialty, les tartines. That's his accordion resting in the corner, waiting for the moment when he might hoist it and play. Meantime, he's pouring wine, commenting on your choice of tartine and urging you to linger longer over coffee and a sweet. Rover's 2808 E. Madison St., Seattle; 206-325-7442 Thierry Rautureau, charmer of fancy-food-fanciers and high-flying winenoisseurs, is as famous for his hat as his lavish menus degustation. The impish Frenchman continues to gild the lily at his epicurean's abode — one of the city's premier dining rooms — by tempting regulars (and those who wish they could be) with a Fridays-only lunch card and adding a la carte items to his dramatically designed dinner menu. MEXICAN Taqueria La Fondita No. 2 9811 15th Ave. S.W., Seattle; 206-551-0529 Yes, it's a truck: a parking-lot pit-stop where a couple bucks buys sensational snacks. Tacos, tortas and mulitas come stuffed with everything from pollo to cabeza, adobada to lengua. Full-meal deals include pollo asado (that's half a chicken, amigo). Take it to go or share a canopied picnic bench. FYI: La Fondita No. 1 (in Tacoma) and No. 3 (new, in Lynnwood) are sit-down shops. Cocina Esperanza 3127 N.W. 85th St., Seattle; 206-783-7020 At this cozy cafe, the mood's convivial and the Mexican menu speaks with a distinct Northwest accent. Order a pitcher of housemade sangria and a side of chunky guacamole, check out the daily specials (pray for Dungeness crab sincronizadas) and consider classics like camarones mojo de ajo, chiles rellenos, exceptional enchiladas and orange-scented flan. MIDDLE EAST Zaina Food Drink & Friends 108 Cherry St., Seattle; 206-624-5687 Hookahs stand sentry along the far wall, but your eyes are on the prize: a deli-counter disguised as a Middle Eastern food-fest: one that might begin with a cloud of creamy hummus, end with baklava and sweet Turkish coffee — brewed in an ibrik — and encompass everything from "The Greatest Falafel on Earth" (yes, they exaggerate), to chicken shwarma and lamb shish kebab, served in grilled pita or as filling "platters." Alborz 8461 164th Ave. N.E., Redmond; 425-883-1080 Ali Rouhfar, chef and artist-in-residence, offers the foods of his native Iran at this serene little bistro-cum-gallery. Soothing Persian music underscores the alluring aroma of saffron-scented basmati rice, grilled meats and long-simmering stews fragrant with Persian herbs and spices, simply prepared and prettily presented. Begin a meal with house-baked naan — best enjoyed with a mix of elegant, mint-garnished spreads. OYSTERS Old Edison Inn Edison; 360-766-6266 Mosey into this country-corner tavern and set yourself down for oysters just about anywhichway you want. Throw back a shooter or two for starters — a saucy singleton in a shot glass. Move on to the Grilled Oyster Scatter of just-right-battered bivalves fresh from nearby Samish Bay. If oysters ain't your thang, reach for a burger (hali-, ham-, salmon or chicken) or carve into a juicy steak. Wash it all down with one of the 14 beers on tap or an adult beverage from the full bar. On Sundays and some Saturdays, kick up your heels to live music. Elliott's Oyster House 1201 Alaskan Way, Seattle; 206-623-4340 Revel in the Pacific Northwest's oyster bonanza at this classic seafoodery, where the crown jewels are on dramatic display and the well-tended oyster bar is your throne. Professional shuckers take tastebuds on a tour of local inlets, coves and bays, and will happily discuss origin and growing methods while you slurp their wondrous wares. Oyster cheat-sheets make picking and choosing fun. Feel free to ask how best to pair your slurp with the right sip. VIETNAMESE Seattle Deli 225 12th Ave. S. No. 101, Seattle; 206-328-0106 At this bustling take-out joint, order an egg roll, a steam-table entrée (say, fried tilapia with Chinese broccoli), throw in dessert (Technicolor tapioca!) and you'll still have a hard time breaking a 10-spot. Be a sport. Bring a bagful of banh mi — the Vietnamese baguette sandwich — back to the office. Filled with meats, marinated daikon and carrots, cilantro and jalapeños, they're cheap at twice the price. Monsoon 615 19th Ave. E., Seattle; 206-325-2111 Sibling chefs Sophie and Eric Banh borrow a page from the neighborhood bistro playbook then take it to intriguing levels with innovative riffs on Vietnamese cookery — inspired by a Northwest chef's cornucopia. Their contemporary café wins kudos for a wine list carefully matched to the cuisine, and a weekend brunch with a short, stunning array of dim sum. DIM SUM Mee Sum Pastry 1526 Pike Place Market, Seattle; 206-682-6780 No dim sum carts here, but you can cart home a box of the city's best hom bao — warm from the oven (try the burnished beauty stuffed with chicken and mushrooms). A trio of ginger-scented potstickers or a football-shaped "shrimp wedge" stuffed with dried shrimp and minced pork help make this a must-stop on the Market nosh circuit. O'Asian Kitchen 800 Fifth Ave., Suite Plaza 1 (Bank of America Building), Seattle; 206-264-1789 Dim sum dining goes glamorama, and everything — from elegant tableware to the daily parade of delish dim sum — says, "Whoa, Nelly! We're not in Chinatown anymore!" A Szechwan Mary with your siu mai? A flute of Rare Monkey Pick tea with your congee? Among the moveable feast: honey-walnut shrimp, chile-stoked turnip cake and a trio of petite hom bao. DOWN SOUTH Catfish Corner 2726 E. Cherry St., Seattle; 206-323-4330 Order at the counter and sip sweet iced tea while you watch TV and wait for Southern farm-raised catfish, served every way but swimming. Have it whole on the bone, precisely filleted, built for easy eating as "Bits & Pups" or dished up as "dinner" with a slew of sides. Deep-fried in a cornmeal-crisp jacket, this cat needs only a squeeze of lemon. Candied yams will sweeten your pot (belly). Sazerac 1101 Fourth Ave. (Hotel Monaco), Seattle; 206-624-7755; This pulchritudinous paean to old New Orleans has hotel swank and speaks fluent tourist, but locals find lots to love, starting with its namesake cocktail featuring rye whisky, bitters and a dash of Pernod. Spoon glossy gumbo, rich and smoky with duck, crawfish and andouille. Slurp oysters shocked with lemon-horseradish granita, watch cooks pull andouille pizzas from a brick oven and relax on a velveteen banquette nibbling hush-puppies and ribs. ICE CREAM Husky Deli 4721 California Ave. S.W., Seattle; 206-937-2810 Jovial Jack Miller is the third-generation owner and resident ice cream maker at the iconic Husky Deli — a West Seattle treasure since 1932. You'll find Jack and his kids and their cousins ringing up gourmet goodies, making sandwiches and scooping sweet treats: some 50 flavors, old-fangled and new, including kid-friendly candy-flecked peppermint and adult must-haves like cappuccino chip. Grab ready-to-go packs from the freezer. Mora Iced Creamery Bellevue Square, Second Level; 425-454-2073139 Madrone Lane, Bainbridge Island, 206-855-8822 Imagine Ye Old Ice Cream Shoppe envisioned by a mad scientist and you've got Mora, where elegant ice cream is made with impeccable ingredients and secreted away in sealed stainless-steel containers to protect tantalizing textures and fullsome flavors. With pretty parfaits, waffle bowls and gluten-free cones, this place pours on the small-town charm on Bainbridge, adds to the mall-crawl gloss in Bellevue and plans to expand elsewhere — soon. COCKTAILS Hattie's Hat and Aunt Harriet's Lounge 5231 Ballard Ave. N.W., Seattle; 206-784-0175 You need a shot of cheap vodka or a Coors Light? Why not drink it staring at the hand-carved French bar shipped around the Horn a century ago? A bar that — like the faded landscape on the mural behind you — helps define the Ballard booze-hall we know and love. Hattie's snubs its Nordic nose at every happening hooch-joint around. Soak up the social scene and the high character-quotient in Aunt Harriet's Lounge with a burger and a plateful of fries. And remember: At Aunt Harriet's, there's no saying "uncle." Licorous 928 12th Ave. S., Seattle; 206-325-6947 Lusty little Licorous is the adjunct to John Sundstrom's small-plates sensation, Lark, but this hangout-next-door leaves "doing dinner" to its sibling. Celebrate the custom cocktail, served in the perfect vessel and paired with a fussy nibble: say, harissa-roasted chickpeas or chile-stoked geoduck ceviche. Artisanal ingredients add excitement to the plate and the glass, with housemade infusions upping the alcoholic ante. SUSHI Blue C Sushi 3411 Fremont Ave. N., Seattle; 206-633-3311; 4601 26th Ave. N.E., Seattle; 206-525-4601 Whether you're a sushi junkie looking for a quick hit, a sushi scaredy-cat looking to broaden your horizons, or a frazzled Fremonster running in for help-yourself take-out, Blue C has your number. "Sushi chefs" use high-tech machinery, fashioning favorites while you design your own meal from color-coded plates on the rotating conveyor belt. (Color = cost.) Need a hand-roll? Push a button and presto! Special orders don't upset 'em. Kisaku 2101 N. 55th St., Suite 100, Seattle; 206-545-9050 White linen, impeccable service, live guitar on Sunday nights and a top-notch chef in an open kitchen? Ryu Nakano's devotees know they'll get all that — and more — at his casually elegant sushi restaurant. Here, friendly faces abound, dates can dally over dinner and kids get a warm welcome. A well-stocked sushi case, seasonal specials like fresh uni and shirako, superb kitchen creations and a brief-but-impressive sake list add to the draw. BREAKFAST Chace's Pancake Corral 1606 Bellevue Way S.E., Bellevue; 425-454-8888 For nearly half a century this Bellevue square has been doing big business in old-school hospitality. Founder Bill Chace has gone to that comfy kitchen in the sky, but his family keeps us in the style to which we've grown accustomed: warm hearts, hot coffee, pay at the register for a.m. eats: pancakes and eggs, rashers of bacon and crisp, housemade waffles. The Georgian Fairmont Olympic Hotel, 411 University St.; 206-621-7889 At The Georgian, elegance is indeed bliss. Wake up to a world where crystal chandeliers hang from a soaring ceiling, fine linen and fancy china are de rigueur, and careful cosseting reflects an era where luxury and gentility are always on the menu. Forget Denny's Grand Slam. This expensive escape is the grande dame of breakfasts. Help yourself to a continental buffet served in continental splendor or sit tight and wait for stunning specialties like the Northwest Benedict (whose hollandaise hides lovely alderwood-smoked salmon) or the prettiest of pancakes perfected with a lush pour of lavender-infused maple syrup. SANDWICHES Bakeman's 122 Cherry St., Seattle; 206-622-3375 Bakeman's, doing business in a low-budget basement for decades, is home of the all-American sandwich built on (housemade) wheat or white and stuffed with meatloaf, fresh-roasted turkey and other homey fixins'. Take in the cafeteria-style scenery and rub elbows with barristers and bail-bondsmen while chief cook and rabble-rouser Jason Wang offers dessert and busts chops at the register. No credit cards. Grinders Hot Sands 19811 Aurora Ave. N., Shoreline; 206-542-0627 The sleek interior helps make clear: This ain't no Jersey sub-shop, though the Italian-accented "SauBall" (spicy sausage and meatballs) and the "Gilbano" (sand-man Mitch Gilbert's mighty version of the Philly cheese steak) pay homage. Grilled meats, garlicky marinara and warm Italian rolls help do justice to the word grinder. Show up on Saturday evenings for vino and live blues. OLD AMERICAN/MODERN AMERICAN Lowell's 1519 Pike Place, Seattle; 206-622-2036 They've got "Three floors! Water views!" and have been "Making Friends Out of Strangers Since 1957!" Those strangers may well be tourists, standing in the cafeteria line downstairs, ordering "famous" clam chowder and a Market Louie piled high with fresh crab and bay shrimp. But they may well be hungry locals, breakfasting on ham and eggs, living large upstairs at the bar, or living it up at a table-with-a-view, treating themselves to a real American repast: roast turkey dinner with all the trimmings. Crush 2319 E. Madison St., Seattle; 206-302-7874 There's less of a crush here since chef Jason Wilson added second-story seating to his carefully restored century-old home of Modern American Cuisine. But the best seats in the house — for culinary voyeurs — remain those at the kitchen counter, behind which savvy servers craft killer cocktails and chefs sear Alaskan black cod to succulence and prepare their signature sensation, slow-braised short ribs. JEWISH Bagel Oasis 2112 N.E. 65th St., Seattle; 206-526-0525 It might not look like an oasis, but those who grew up eating the real deal know that in one important way, it is. Here, the hole-y ones are made on premise, the correct way: boiled then baked. So, your baker's dozen might include a blueberry bagel or three, but where else can you get a bialy stuffed with a hotdog (all-beef, natch)? Or a bagful of the best pumpernickel bagels around: dense, chewy rounds that need little more than a schmear (they call them "spreads"). Goldbergs' Famous Delicatessen 3924 Factoria Blvd. S.E., Bellevue; 425-641-6622 Providing "Authentic East Coast Style Deli" food is a tall order on the West Coast, but they're doing what they can here by offering gargantuan smoked-fish platters starring sable, whitefish and — yes! — "belly lox." And piling quality rye (soft, but that's their schtick) with chopped liver, hot pastrami or both. Their half-sour pickles rule, there's salami and eggs for breakfast and — mazel tov! — they'll cater your kid's bar mitzvah. GREEK Kafé Neo 21108 Highway 99, Edmonds, 425-672-3476; 9730 State Ave., Marysville; 360-651-9286 Gyros come stuffed with thick, tender calamari. Kids want mac 'n' cheese? Here they'll eat "makaronia with mizithra." And yaya's recipes include mousaka and pastitsio. At these quick-eats joints, gyros and pastries are the house specialties, you order at the (not so) quick-service counter, and the goods are delivered tableside. The recently remodeled Edmonds store is now twice its original size; Marysville has a drive-through. Lola 2000-B Fourth Ave., Seattle; 206-441-1430 It's chic. It's Greek. And it's a Tom Douglas production, which is to say that this jazzy joint howls with energy and exudes casual sophistication. There's octopus for breakfast (with pork belly and a fried egg), ouzo-spiked kebabs for lunch (and dinner, and late-night snacking). And whether you're here for a small spread or a large one (a whole char-grilled fish, a multicourse "Big Dinner"), you're in for a fun repast. PIZZERIA Zagi's Pizza Ristorante 2408 N.W. 80th St., Seattle; 206-706-0750 It's a slice of a joint, with a handful of tables, specializing in groovy New York-style pizza. They'll top your pie with free-range chicken, Yukon gold potatoes, yada, yada, yada. But there's always a slice with a chewy oven-blistered crust and your name on it. Culled from a 21-inch pie, it's huge. Smart diners call ahead. Lucky locals call for delivery. Tutta Bella Neapolitan Pizzeria 4918 Rainier Ave. S., Seattle; 206-721-3501; 4411 Stone Way N., Seattle; 206-633-3800 Fast-food meets Slow Food at Tutta Bella. Granted, you might not give a rip that the place has the official blessing of the Neapolitan Pizza Police. Because you're too busy enjoying silky-crusted pizza topped with seasonal treats like fresh figs and goat cheese, or year-round delights like prosciutto di Parma and arugula. Extra credit goes to little "extras": friendly table service, Bottega Italiana gelato and an all-Italian wine list. BURGERS Red Mill Burgers 312 N. 67th St., Seattle; 206-783-6362; 1613 W. Dravus St., Seattle; 206-284-6363 The line's long — but moves fast — and Mick Jagger's perpetually screaming he "can't get no satisfaction." Well, he's obviously never eaten a Red Mill Double Bacon Deluxe with a side of Babe's onion rings. Nor a Red Onion Jam Burger with a malt and some fries. And he surely never tried the justly famous "Verde Burger" or he'd be hip to the joys of roasted Anaheim chilies in a melted Jack-cheese embrace. Cascadia 2328 First Ave., Seattle; 206-448-8884 This fine-dining house's mini-burgers are so popular, you may find yourself waiting for a seat in the bar where $3 buys a solo burger of Lilliputian proportion. But what price fun-on-a-bun when it's pink-centered hanger steak dressed to thrill, presented on a tiered tray with add-ons like black truffle butter or a fried Penn Cove oyster? You want fries with that? You will, especially at happy hour, when burgers are a buck. ITALIAN Salumi Artisan Cured Meats 309 Third Ave. S., Seattle; 206-621-8772 Fawning national press and a fussy food-lover's fervent following have failed to steer the Batali family from their hard-working mission: "If you cure it, they will come." And the faithful do, shoehorning hungry bodies into a small space, dealing with short hours and few seats, and lining up for sandwiches built with fabulous finocchiona, luscious lamb prosciutto and that heavenly ham, culatello. Specials like gnocchi and cotechino keep 'em coming back for more. Café Juanita 9702 N.E. 120th Pl., Kirkland; 425-823-1505 Chef Holly Smith sets the standard for high-end Italian by offering seasonal menus, a well-tuned wine list and superior service. Sustainable ingredients, housemade pastas and elegant preparations — a simple brodo, a whole grilled branzino or the signature braised rabbit with Ligurian chickpea crepe — help define her love for and culinary approach to the cuisine of Northern Italy. THAI Super Bowl Noodle House 814 N.E. 65th St., Seattle; 206-526-1570 The noodles live up to the name at this compact café where kind service is a plus. Settle in at the counter and watch the cooks, at a tiny table (grab a magazine or newspaper if you're alone), or out on the garden patio. The colorful, annotated menu highlights the usual assortment of phad Thai and curries, plus appetizers, those signature noodle bowls (brimful with fragrant herbs and plenty of garlic) and seasonal specials. Typhoon! 8936 161st Ave. N.E., Redmond (Bella Bottega Center); 425-558-7666; 1400 Western Ave., Seattle; 206-262-9797www.typhoonrestaurants.com Soups and curries are aromatherapeutic arias sung in the key of "gee!" Notable nibbles include miang kum and ahi larb — a tunarific take on Thai chicken salad. Pine Cone Fish is scored and shaped into its coniferous cousin, and softshell crab kicks up its legs when punctuated with Thai spices. An Asian food-friendly wine list and scores of loose-leaf teas, stylish dining rooms and smart service are key to these Thai twins' success. SOUL FOOD Ezell's Famous Chicken 501 23rd Ave., Seattle; 206-324-4141 7531 196th St. S.W., Lynnwood; 425-673-4193 11805 Renton Ave. S., Skyway; 206-772-1925 4575 N.E. Fourth Ave., Renton; 425-228-9008 17323 140th Ave. N.E., Woodinville; 425-485-8960 Forget your mama's fried chicken. These take-out-only joints have the crunch, the munch and — if you order it "spicy" — the punch. If you've got a taste for gizzards and livers, they'll hook you up. Ditto for sides like beans, slaw and mashed potatoes. If they're pulling hot dinner rolls out of the oven and you leave without buying a few extras, you're a fool. Not that you'll have room for it, but there's homemade sweet potato pie, too. JoAnna's Soul Cafe & Jazz Club 2514 E. Cherry St., Seattle; 206-568-6300 Born as Belltown's upscale Alexandria's on Second, later renamed and relocated to the heart of the Central District, this relaxing restaurant and bar jazzes up soul-food favorites offering collards and black-eyed peas as "Soul Rolls," frying lobster into "popcorn" and bringing live jazz to the table come evening. You move to the beat while eating honey-dipped chicken and sticky-sweet St. Louis-style ribs. VEGETARIAN Cyber-Dogs 909 Pike St., Seattle; 206-405-3647 They put the "fun" in funkadelic at this tiny Internet café, where the menu bow(wow)s to its master: the hotdog. Fans come for the dogs (primary ingredient: soy protein) served next-to-naked or smothered with the likes of heat-packing chili, garlicky babaganouj or spicy mushrooms and potatoes. Regulars know to grab a beer (root- or otherwise) from the fridge and promise not to hog tables or computer access. Carmelita 7314 Greenwood Ave. N., Seattle; 206-706-7703 Creative chefs have come and gone over the past decade, putting their mark on the meatless Mediterranean-inspired menu, yet Carmelita consistently delivers. Bank on local and organic produce, fine ingredients imported from near (Humboldt Fog chevre) and far (Trampetti olive oil) and a kitchen that raises the bar with just-baked flatbreads, homemade pastas and house-cured pickles. INDIAN/PAKISTANI Naan-N-Curry 709 S. Third St., Renton; 425-271-6226 With its extensive halal menu and affiliation with the (faster-paced and more utilitarian) Naan-N-Curry joints in San Francisco, this fragrant addition to downtown Renton adds a taste of East India and Pakistan to this city's delicious melting pot. Choose your heat quotient as you would at a Thai restaurant, consider favorites like chicken tikka masala or specialties like magaz masala (brains) and don't skimp on the naan: You'll need it to sop up that curry. Sahib Fine Indian Cuisine 101 Main St., Edmonds; 425-775-2828 Where else can you eat tandoori specialties (try the mixed grill, piled with "extras" like salmon and a lamb chop) in as lovely a waterfront locale? This spacious dining room and warm-weather deck overlooks the ferry terminal and the beach at Brackett's Landing — a swell setting for a bounteous buffet lunch or brunch. Come for dinner, stay for cocktails and when the trains pass and the room trembles, pretend you're traveling first class on India's Great Railway. CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICAN Salvadorean Bakery 1719 S.W. Roxbury St., Seattle; 206-762-4064 Sisters Ana Castro and Aminta Elgin bring a taste of El Salvador to this homey haven billed as a bakery but (also) prized as a pupuseria, grocery store and community center. Come for hand-shaped pastries, tres leches cake and other sweets, and for savories including thick pupusas filled with loroca and salty cheese. Indecisive? Have the Plato Guanaco, a satisfying starch-fest whose highlights include a steamed tamal, sweet fried plantain and crunchy yucca with fried pork. Mixtura 148 Lake St. S., Kirkland; 425-803-3310 With a pisco sour in hand, it's off to a brave new world of modern Peruvian cuisine. "Mixturas" — small dishes suitable for one or two — range from the simple (smoky grilled octopus) to the sublime (citrus-scented purple potatoes sandwiching crab and shrimp). The kitchen counter provides the perfect perch for viewing a magical mosaic of colorful ceviches, entrees like Serrano-wrapped sea scallops and high-styled desserts. Nancy Leson is The Seattle Times restaurant critic. Mike Siegel is a Times staff photographer. Copyright © 2006 The Seattle Times Company
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