A bar and grill for one and all

I have a lot of associations with the word "bodacious" (surfers, the film "Bill & Ted's Excellent Adventure"), but they don't usually include Beethoven's Moonlight Sonata, cloth napkins and a 1-pound rib-eye steak.

I went to Bing's Bodacious Burgers expecting — let's say it together now — bodacious burgers, and ate an impressively good one. But bodacious doesn't really describe Bing's.

Sure, it loudly announces its presence in refined Madison Park with a neon sign. Diners sit at red vinyl booths and eat from speckled retro dishes. The menu has homey choices, and the food is fresh and high quality.

But Bill and Ted would never eat their burgers by candlelight, nor dab their mouths with cloth napkins after chowing on hot wings. With a beaded light fixture, a full bar and general mellow atmosphere, Bing's is more bar and grill than burger joint.

The burgers, however, are its specialty, with a full page of options ($8.50-$12.50). They're served with a hefty but not-too-thick patty, piled high with onions and other fresh vegetables, and come with addictively crisp french fries.

Want meat but not a burger? There are pricier options like barbecue ribs (half, $14.95; full, $18.95) and a 16-ounce rib-eye (an eye-popping $27.95). Mexican entrees are also offered, including fajitas ($15.95) and chile rellenos ($14.95).

Starters feature classics (onion rings, $7.95) and unusual choices like the Hop Sing spring-roll appetizer ($7.95). And a full section of salads will appeal to the healthy eater.

I'm certain there are people who will appreciate the candlelight, the fully stocked bar and the family-friendly yet polished vibe when munching on a burger. And fans of bar-and-grill-style places should not be dissuaded by the name.

I just don't know if Bill and Ted would fit in.

Check please:

Bing's Snappy Wings: Served with cucumber instead of celery, these hot wings are punchy and delicious. The hot sauce adds a judicious dose of vinegary heat, and the ranch dressing cools your tongue. I'd eat a full plate.

Hola Burger: The burger is served wrapped in foil, which is handy since the juicy, generous toppings are quite messy. The patty is the perfect size and comes topped with big slices of onion, fresh lettuce and juicy tomatoes. Guacamole adds creaminess but can overwhelm the chewy bacon and pepper jack cheese. All things considered, it was a quality burger.

Smoky Chicken Quesadilla: This appetizer is big enough for a meal, with smoky chicken shoring up a generous mix of cheddar and pepper jack cheeses, scallions and tomatoes. The tortilla was just crisp enough for the hefty quesadilla, which is accompanied by salsa with bite.

Itemized bill, meal for two

Bing's Snappy Wings, half order $5.95

Hola Burger $9.50

Smoky Chicken Quesadilla $9.95

Coffee $1.75

Tax $2.47

Total $29.62

Nicole Tsong: 206-464-2150 or ntsong@seattletimes.com