Sushi patrol: What floats a "fishionado's" boat?

The sheer volume of sushi-centric restaurants makes the question "What's your favorite sushi place?" one tough call around here, and my answer has caveats that inevitably involve time (or lack thereof), money (ditto) and geography (I work in downtown Seattle and live north of it).

I'm a big-time raw fish fancier, but I'm not above stopping for supermarket sushi — particularly if it's from Shoreline Central Market or Maruta Shoten in Georgetown. Nor am I averse to ringing up sushi restaurants in search of generous portions of inexpensive takeout: Musashi's in Wallingford tops my list for that. The time-and-expense factor also explains why you might find me lunching at conveyor-belt-propelled joints like Sushi Land near Seattle Center and Blue C Sushi in Fremont and University Village.

One of the great joys of my job as restaurant critic is discovering swell new sushi bars, finds that have included Chiso, in Fremont; Red Fin, downtown in the Hotel Max; Sushiman in Issaquah; Tuna House in Bellevue; and Yamashiro Sushi Bistro near Shoreline. I've taken readers' advice and trekked to West Seattle to sample the creative wares of Hajime Sato at Mashiko (love him) and to old Japantown in the ID to eat at the stylishly revamped Fuji Sushi (loved that).

And a few weeks ago, after receiving a heartfelt complaint about the food and service at Shiro's Sushi in Belltown, I revisited the place many consider the city's best sushi restaurant, owned by revered sushi chef Shiro Kashiba. Having scored a coveted seat in front of the master, Shiro-san asked, "Are you from out of town?" — as many of my fellow patrons apparently were. Then he provided me with an evening's worth of good (if not great) food, spotty (OK, he was busy) service and first-rate entertainment (live shrimp? "Sayonara!") proving something I've long believed: Shiro's sparkling personality is his restaurant's biggest draw.

Beg to differ with my sushi choices? Your opinion is always welcome. And speaking of opinions, here's my list of the five sushi bars I love to love when I'm off the critic's clock.

Saito's Japanese Café & Bar

Every hardcore sushi fan has a sushi god and you'll find mine, Yutaka Saito, moving swiftly, quietly and gracefully behind the sushi bar at his contemporary Belltown cafe. Saito offers a treasure trove of seasonal seafood in a well-stocked case whose depth and breadth is what brings me back often, but never often enough.

What to order? Fatty tuna sprinkled with sea salt? Shimmering sardines? Sea cucumber, chewy and divine? I leave that up to this Tokyo-trained classicist who has an eye for artistic presentation and a knack for knowing exactly what I want.

An extensive sake selection, noteworthy offerings from the kitchen and informed service are added attractions.

2122 Second Ave., Seattle; 206-728-1333, www.saitos-cafe.com; lunch Tuesdays-Fridays; dinner Tuesdays-Saturdays (closed Sundays and Mondays).

Kisaku

Everyone, it seems, loves Kisaku. And what's not to love at this über-friendly Wallingford sushi bar where cheerful chef Ryu Nakano presides. Kisaku has it all: delightful décor (with linen-draped tables and a small private dining room), extensive hours (they're even open for lunch on Saturdays), my kind of music (including live jazz guitar on Sunday nights) and an appealing kid-friendliness that helps explain why Kisaku is my family's "special" place. All of which makes this a neighborhood standout as well as a relaxing dining destination.

2101 N. 55th St., Seattle; 206- 545-9050, www.kisaku.com; lunch Mondays, Wednesdays- Saturdays; dinner Mondays, Wednesdays- Sundays (closed Tuesdays).

Taka Sushi

Good things come in small packages, and great things come at this one. Hard to find (it's just south of PetSmart in Lynnwood) but worth the trouble, this diminutive spot with only 27 seats is home to Tomokatsu Takayama. Never heard of him? Too bad. Because his sushi is as inventive and impressive as any of the Big Name chefs around and (shhhhh!) it's less expensive.

I like to settle in at his teensy sushi bar and let Taka-san have at it. Often as not he'll knock my socks off, offering creative sensations like sashimi sauced with a pungent blend of sansho leaves, or a tiny spoonful of wasabi-laced granita embellished with sweet uni.

18904 Highway 99 (Center III, suite A), Lynnwood; 425-778-1689; lunch Tuesdays-Fridays; dinner Tuesdays-Sundays (closed Mondays).

Nishino

Madison Park regulars call this their neighborhood hangout, but for me and my husband, Nishino is a date-night destination. One that calls for a leisurely evening of sake drinking, sushi sampling and — if we're feeling flush — a multi-course "exclusive" omakase dinner. That parade of pretties (two day's advance notice required) highlights chef Tatsu Nishino's "best" finds, though I'll bet you'll find a lot to like among the standard fare. His menu's seasonality extends beyond seafood to embrace Northwest produce (asparagus, morel mushrooms). And a gourmand's idea of garnish (edible gold leaf, sevruga caviar) is among the elegant touches.

3130 E. Madison St., Seattle; 206-322-5800; dinner nightly.

Toyoda Sushi

My kid calls this place "Helen's" — a nod to sushi chef/owner Natsuyoshi Toyoda's charming other half — who runs this Lake City longtimer with smiling efficiency. I like the modest prices, long list of appetizers and constant camaraderie found around Toyoda's cramped sushi-bar. But with all due respect to the fine young fellows who back him up, I prefer to come when Toyoda's on the job (not always the case, especially early in the week).

There's nothing fussy or artsy here: just quality sushi and lots of little extras (chilled noodles, spicy octopus salad). But for me and my sushi-lovin' progeny, that's more than enough.

12543 Lake City Way N.E., Seattle; 206-367-7972; dinner Wednesdays- Sundays (closed Tuesdays).