Jones-ing for good food? Cravings met here

Early one Friday evening, the neighborhood crowd that convened at this casual Maple Leaf bistro and bar was pretty evenly divided between the haves and have-nots.

The haves were equipped with infant carriers, crayons, coloring books and Game Boys. They looked a little frazzled as they herded their youngsters through the maze of booths. They tended not to stay long.

The have-nots, meanwhile, were mostly perched at tall tables in the bar, cocktail glasses in hand, looking as if they were there for the duration. And why not? The food is good and the drinks made with care, the music is amped for partying and everywhere you look a TV is playing your game.

Since owners Scott Simpson and Michelle Steele took over the former Joe's on Roosevelt last July, change has been gradual but inexorable. In October, the restaurant officially became The Jones, which also happens (not totally coincidentally) to be the name of the chef. Jason Jones and sous chef Jeremy Fox boast impressive credentials: Jones cooked at Nell's and The Herbfarm; Fox at Market Street Grill and Wild Mountain Café. Between them they make everything on the menu from scratch, from the hamburger buns, pasta and pizza dough to the chocolate terrine.

If you've come in the mood to splurge, look to entrees such as pan-seared duck breast, sea scallops, paella or beef tenderloin — all about $20. If you've left the little ones at home and the budget won't stretch to beef tenderloin and a baby-sitter, there are plenty of entrees priced at $15 or less, including pasta, pan-roasted chicken breast and pork tenderloin.

Friendly servers are standing by to take your order. So whether you're a have or a have-not, think about treating yourself to a night out at The Jones.

Check please:

Queso crispas: These oven-crisped corn- tortilla wedges are deliciously cheesy nibbles, the cheddar topped variously with chicken, tomatoes or roasted peppers. Think potato skins, without the potato.

French onion soup: A medium-bodied broth with plenty of onions and a thick blanket of Gruyère make this a satisfying starter, though the soggy bread under the cheese is not quite as supportive as you'd like it to be.

Pork tenderloin: Beautifully grilled hunks of meat are joined by a spicy stew of carrots and peppers over a bed of couscous. Shaved fennel salad garnishes the top, but the paper-thin strands had lost their crispness.

Fettuccine primavera: Beautiful house-made pasta, cooked al dente, comes with a garden of vegetables — green and red peppers, carrots, zucchini and cherry tomatoes. A dash of salt and pepper perked up the gentle, wine-spiked cream sauce.

Chocolate terrine: Two wickedly rich slices of dark and white marbled chocolate taste just like the inside of a truffle. It's finished with hazelnut cream.

Itemized bill, meal for two

Queso crispas $6.00

French onion soup $6.00

Pork tenderloin $14.00

Fettuccine primavera $13.00

Chocolate terrine $5.00

Tax $4.09

Total $48.09

Providence Cicero: providencecicero@aol.com